John Bennett

There are a lot of carbon Marbleheads around that are not having problems, my Marblehead aerial pair are just under some deck patch material at deck level, and I don't have a problem. The 2.4Ghz doesn't really like going through anything, including water and people. Stand with 5 other sailors between your TX and the boat and you may get a problem. Don't forget that for maximum signal ideally your tx aerial and rx aerial should be parallel, i.e. don't "point" your tx aerial at the boat. With respect to distance I have recently been sailing a DF65 on a large lake at 350m away, and with model aircraft much further away.

It can be useful to set your failsafe to a slight turn, and sails mid way out, in case of loss of signal due to range, it may then sail back into range 😊

I know a club member who has created the following iphone app Simple Sailing Countdown Timer for iPhone - App Download

When an IOM measurement certificate has gone missing is there any way a duplicate can be issued ?

You would be better off using a "throttle curve" on your transmitter, if it has it, as you can set the movement across the whole range of the winch by defining a number of points on a graph. "Exponential" generally works from the mid stick point to either end of the stick position which probably isn't what you want.

Hi, I am treasurer for a Model Flying Club and the account is with TSB, and it is currently free. However ....... I understand that Santander is taking over TSB so I might suffer the same fate.

The first issue you may have is which way round to control the rudder from the stick. If you are a tiller man you may want to push the stick left to go right, but I would suggest you first try to use the most common method of stick right = rudder right.

Oh, once set up you just need to flick a switch when you change the rig, seems easier to me 🙂

With a DX6i, in Helicopter mode, you should be able to use the THRO CUR (Throttle Curve) function to allow you you define the end points both sheeted in and sheeted out, and also the response in between those positions, by switching between STUNT and NORM modes.

I've just been reading the manual and in "ACRO" model type you can use either EXPO or Throttle Curve on the throttle stick. In the case of EXPO on the throttle channel it operates from the low position instead of the middle position in the case of aileron, rudder and elevator. If you look at section 3.3.14 THR CURVE (ACRO) it lets you set a throttle curve "for each switch position" which I think will let you do the different "Sheeted in" positions that you want.

"Helicopter mode" nearly always allow a "throttle curve", and indeed many "fixed wing" modes also have it, hope you find a solution.

Wade out to it

If you read Brad Gibson's information on the BG website you would read that Brad suggests the wire and tube option

Somebody in our club had this problem. I think first he tried supergluing the allen key in place, but this didn't work so I think he drilled out the top of the screw, took the plate off then used pliers on the remainder of the screw.

Hi David, It's not new bearings but a different screw adjustment mechanism with thumbwheels, and sturdier as I think the old ones could break You can see an example of the replacement boom kit on the radiosailing.co.uk website at £14.90 (other stockists are probably available)

Yes, but you can buy a replacement boom with the new kicker should you so wish, which many people have done, the new kicker is easier to use and I personally think holds its position better than the old.

Hi, after thinking you are running at too low a voltage I have just gone and had a look at an old Whirlwind Olympic in my box of bits and it is clearly marked Max 7.2v. This in the past has meant use a 6 cell nicad/nimh (yes I know a fully charged one can be 8.4v but that's how servos used to be rated). So I think your winch is cutting out in order to preserve the 5.1v going to the receiver and hence steerage, and when not loaded for a while the voltage will recover slightly and allow the winch to work again for a while. You could tell us exactly what battery pack you are using so we can check if it will allow a reasonable current draw too.

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Aren't these the ones that are the same as an Australian cat food cover

Don't forget that mast rake is not the only way of affecting weather helm so presumably they are using different settings for some or all of sail depth, twist, boom angles ... You can be sure they are not sailing with an excess of weather helm although some like a little bit so the yacht is finding the lift.

I use 1mm or 1.2 mm pole elastic and only have a little tension on it when the sails are sheeted right out. I buy it in my local GO Outdoors fishing section, needs changing about once per year.

You can drip thin super glue down into the keel box from the outside, if water can get in then superglue can get to the hole/crack too .

You are allowed to drill a second hole, see the following from the DF95 rules:- "F.10 Backstay Crane To facilitate fore and aft positioning of the Mainsail head, a second hole may be drilled in the Backstay Crane for attachment of the Mainsail head, but the sail shall be attached to only one of these holes "

DF65 and DF95 sails are made by many manufacturers, who make them within the rules, or they would get a bad reputation and people would stop buying. I don't believe they bring in a "measurer" and therefore there is no extra cost. For that matter, many manufacturers also make IOM sails within the rules currently, and would also get a bad reputation if they were outside the rules. Simplify, maybe add "spot checks" at competitions.

I for one am not entering open IOM competitions as I replaced my "A" sails a year or two ago and they are not measured, but will happily enter DF65 and DF95 events as no such problem exists.