Andrew Start

As do all our Open's ☺️ www.yachtsandyachting.com/news/294825/One-Metres-at-Huntingdon

is this unit weatherproof ?

This is the one we use at HRYC, it’s everything proof, and it’s had a good test 😂. OUKITEL RT3 (2023) 8 Inch Tablet,... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BY9MK64K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

ping me an email to our club address hryc@btinternet.com

Buy a BritPOP! 🤣

Up until our recent event on the 5th April, we have always used a written scoresheet, then transferred the scores onto the MYA HMS spread sheet for scoring, which has served us very well over the last 4 years, we moved onto Afleet for our club racing and it is a game changer (I think I already posted about this) For Our open we decided we would run the event on the Afleet App, there is a HMS option, once you have sorted the seeding races, the app deals with all the promotions/demotions etc... for you, there is an option for either 4 or 6 up/down so the heat management and scoring was completed by one person, usually we would have 1 recording scores, 1 on the heat board, using Afleet allowed an extra skipper to race on the day. If you have the app give it a try, its easier than the alternative (in my opionion) Andy Start - Huntingdon RYC

we upgraded to current technology last year, to date, it has served us very well, loud, clear, and waterproof. you can either play via a tablet or from the device the name caused a titter or two W-KING Bluetooth Speaker, (60W PEAK) 30W RMS Portable Wireless Loud Speakers, IPX6 Waterproof Outdoor Speaker, 24H Playtime, EQ, AUX, TF Card, USB Playback, Powerful Speaker for Home, Party, Camping : Amazon.co.uk: Electronics & Photo click for link to Amazon site

We looked at one of these as an option as our battery was constantly running low on juice, but instead we upgraded our battery to a 120 AH one, and it works so much better for us, at a fraction of the cost, whilst the outboards you mention are a great idea, you are tied to their own batteries, which look expensive

Stolen from elsewhere, but what I follow for twin receiver ariels Yes its the inch or so at the end that does the receiving, so the radio can go anywhere convenient letting the aerial go where needed. The active bit of the aerial needs to be above the waterline, it should be remembered that anything that can conduct electricity will, if in line of sight between transmitter and receiver, block the signal. Dry wood and plastic, OK. Metal, soaking wood (shouldn't happen, but still....), carbon fibre, metal plated plastic, all of these can block the signal. Single aerials don't care which way they point. Twin ones do say in the instrucions that the two elements should be at 90 degrees to each other, but it doesn't matter whether thats vertical or horizontal or anything between. Old style long aerials were difficult to block, the relatively tiny 2G4 aerials can be accidentally blocked much more easily.

Stability issue sorted, our training officer came up with a great solution, and these have now been tested in a blow They stand upright, and I mean bolt upright The buoyancy wheel keeps the boats away from the mark(less chance of a snag) Some dense foam was also added in the top of the mark

Cheers Brad

Morning what gauge are we using for topping lift wire, i have been using dyneema but I want to stiffen it up, my old boat had a flexible steel wire, but struggling to find something small enough

Cheers Eric, we may give your floatation idea a try out

I hear what you say John, but we have the opposite problem, too little is showing above the waterline

We are experimenting with the attached, still jigging the buoyancy to get it right, the flags are really useful, has anyone else come up with a similar system, and if so, how do you manage the buoyancy ? We currently have a small amount of ballast in the bottom, a few holes to let some water in to achieve negative buoyancy, and a child's noodle in the top