All Activity

I was about to put a 10 Rater for sale, Maverick design, GBR 3303. Designed by Ken Collins made by PJ Sails, with a waterline length of 1.28m and sail area of 0.96sq m. All carbon construction as is the fin and rudder. A and B rigs in plastic sleeve. Rigs are shroudless with tapered carbon tubes and with a carbon tube for the jib luff. There is a radial mount for the jibs Twin Whirlwind winches This yacht has not been used for several years because it is the one class we do not sail in the local club. Boat can be seen near Plymouth, Devon but I am willing to travel. More details contact dain.dod@gmail.com, I can provide photos.

Thank you John but I'm looking for a complete one if possible, I'm sure one will come up sooner or later. Thank again Regards George T

Very few 10Rs come up for sale - look at the past classifieds. My suggestions are: 1) If you look in the background of the photo for Nicolas Brown's Silver Queen, there are several 10Rs in LMYC's shed. Last time I was there there must have been a dozen or various ages in there. Maybe someone could be persuaded to part with one. 2) If the price (and timescale) of a Trance or a Diamond is too much then ask Graham Hetem (Datchet) about his offerings. He will sell you a partially completed one to keep the costs down. 3) Build your own. Very satisfying but don't underestimate the time and effort required. My latest one has taken months and there is still a fair bit to do. (Sorry about the inverted images - they flip when I upload them - weird)

I recently purchased the DF95 kit with the FS-ST8 radio. I am very happy with everything except I keep running out of range around the 300 feet mark. Has anyone else had range issues with this set up or know whether I can do something to improve the range. So far I have tried it with the ariel that screws into the top of the transmitter - no difference. Also tried different positions of the receiver ariels but no joy with that either.

V11 designed by Ian Vickers Grey Hull superb condition RMG 290ES winch with Futaba coreless rudder servo No1, 2 and No3 rigs all BG Sails in excellent condition, All masts Black 11mm PG (French) complete with Sailetc ballraced goose necks thought all other fittings by Sailsetc. New wood sail box Just add receiver and go sailing! Private message me for price and more details..

Hi Tom I am interested in your W9 and would like to come and have a look whereabouts are you?and when are you available,I am going to the lake district on Friday so Wednesday the first would be best are you around during the day?I currently sail a wooden Vision and have always admired V8s and 9 and their success in the southern hemisphere where they seem to dominate. Cheers Graham mobile 07866610366

This is a close relation to a V9 but built in cedar. I bought this boat and have cut it back to the bare canoe hull and fitted a very much better looking deck arrangement. It comes with a measurement certificate. Equipment includes A and B rigs ,Waterproof rudder servo , CAT sails and an RMG winch. The fin and rudder are by Dave Creed. Ready to sail. A very pretty boat and whilst i have only sailed it a few times it has speed . I am only selling this as I now have 5 IOMs and need the space for next project. This boat is being re advertised as prospective buyer now wants an all plastic boat. Price £800

Unidentified gaff rigged yacht, thought to be from the 19th century, modeled off of a similar design to the 1903's America's Cup competitor Reliance. The boat's main hatch is labelled with Silver Queen. The keel needs some work to reattach properly to the hull, but the rudder and booms, mast etc are all working, with the exception of the top of the gaff rig, a minor tape or whipping repair. The yacht could serve as either a great conversion to radio, braine etc, or even as a display model. She is between 1 and 1.5 meters. Stand included. HS785 winch, servos and Futaba Tx and Rx (range of options) available upon request for a higher price. Selling on behalf of the London Model Yacht Club. Looking for £250 or thereabouts, please register your interest and any questions you may have at nfezerbrown@icloud.com, or +447983829536. Viewing is available every Sunday morning, some other days are possible once you are in contact. Many thanks for looking.

Sorry, "at the same time" not asylum ...

Hi Mike, John is quite right. You don't have to do anything to clear the old bind, just bind the receiver to a new transmitter and it wipes the old bind asylum do it. Peter

If you have another Tx that is compatible with the Rx, just bind the Rx to it following the bind procedure. John

Can you "de-bind " a receiver? If the "bound" transmitter is damaged, how can you bind the existing receiver to a new transmitter? Equipment is Flysky i6. Mike Ure

Thanks for the recommendation to try Ripmax and for the muff suggestion. If I get the T6K working I'll definitely get one. Ian

I had some issues early on with my T6K which resulted in one of the offset switches (didn't affect sailing) alarming but I couldn't shut down the noise. The guy at Ripmax is EXCELLENT!! One caveat, I ALWAYS use my transmitter muff, because the T6K is very sensitive to water ingress, even drips off a boat when you lift it out. It's a great piece of kit, except for that.

Still available

So it turns out that it’s a captive nut and being mild steel this had rusted solid with the screw. New fin box top fitted and captive nut well greased before screw fitted and screw well greased to. Top of fin box installed sealing as well as possible the top-bottom join and with the deck using my favourite silicon - Fernox - so that will hopefully be okay. I intend to fill the 3 screw tubes in the top of the moulding with grease and will also cover them with small pieces of insulating tape. Once bitten…….

Hi John, I tried your suggestions and thanks again for them. Apparently the T6K has no facility for returning it to factory settings and even removing model data, which you should be able to do, proved impossible. I tried pairing the Rx and the Tx using a new model (never used before and therefore with no data) but this didn't work either. I checked the Mode of the Rx and this proved to be the default setting so should be OK - even though this would be unlikely to have had any effect anyway! Having done lots of reading of both the Rx and the Tx manuals, and being pretty certain the problem wasn't anything to do with the procedures I was following, I emailed Futaba UK. They phoned me within 30 mins!! Brilliant! They were really helpful and worked with me over the phone suggesting I depressed the mode button on the Rx while I powered it up during the pairing even though they agreed this wasn't in either manual. That didn't work either. They came to the conclusion that there was something wrong with the Tx and it might even be one of the circuit boards! I have their address and will send it for checking once I've had someone try to pair it at my club. Thanks again for reaching out. Regards, Ian

I have no idea if it was for sale but looked like it had just been left in the clubhouse for many years, worth an email to ask for sure.

Was there any indication of how much they wanted for it?

Hi all. Looking for a 10r rater in fair to good condition i don't mind doing a bit of work, distance no problem for the the right boat. Regards Rowland George Walton.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/myauk/permalink/26696362640011559/

Anyone have a fairly competetive RG65 for sale. Prefere Herts, Beds, Bucks area. Thanks Steve

Thanks for the wise responses to my post. Main reason was to put it out there for comment. I think we can put the rig to a sensible height under current understanding of the rules. Part of the interest in design is to identify areas of possible development and test the edges of the rules perhaps for no other reason than to make it clear where they are. I usually work in wood so making a deck well in no real issue but to make a mold that incorporates a deck well is not easy for the home builder. The flat(ish) deck design concept would be very simple without a de k well, hence my interest in alternatives. Thank you to Brad and others for replies to my post. Now let's have a look at fin rake !! Both forward and aft ! Cheers to all IOM sailors Tom Roberts GOSPORT MYC

Tom, essentially the deck limit mark can be placed where you want is my take. I would imagine any limit mark would need to be placed in a position that can be visually identified and relevent points checked for compliance against on inspection. I.e. could i readily check that the upper edge of your lower mast band point is within the required 60mm min and 100mm maximum range allowed? Before getting too far ahead, worth understanding the class rules what is mandatory regarding fittings, especially the kicker. You may find you need a mast well of some sort to allow for a kicking strap that meets the rules. The recommended notion that anyone trying anything new should ask for an interpretation from firstly their local measurer who if not clear will pass upwards to a National Technical Officer, then oneards to the International Technical Officer is a correct one. When we can expect that all will follow this advise instead of circumvention or that the playing field will become level for all designers, builders or manufacturers is anyones guess…

Hi Graham Thanks for your interest, but this hull at Eastbourne is not what we are looking for. I am sure it will make someone a good boat in the future. Regards Dennis