stevevw

Sorry just realised they have now retired.

Vinnie Here you go, http://www.mainlinksystems.co.uk/

Nigel You are correct. My favorites are set to the latest news page.

Working for me.

Gareth My reasoning on flipping the fin is that the centering pins are further apart making the twisting force on them less. If you need a 10% aerofoil at the top then an 8% at the bottom may work. I am currently 3D printing my fins with a 1mm wall and only 15% infill. This is then vac bagged with two layers of 200gms carbon. The carbon tube is glued in to the fin. I have the option to use a threaded stainless stud and locating pins to make the ballast removable or making the fin and ballast one piece removable from the hull. On my Ravenna (not built by me) the fin and ballast are all non removable which is a shame, making any experiments difficult to say the least. Keep posting pictures of your build please.

Gareth I only had this conversation with Henry Farley a couple of weeks ago although it was about a Sylth that I am recomisioning. I am going to reverse the fin head to foot and use a NACA 0008 profile. \_/ The Petrel will make a nice light wind boat as I hope will the Sylth My Ballast will be around 6.4kg and also have the wide delta wing.

Thats what I posted on the 6th.

Have you changed the reciever lately? Do you have another reciever you could try? You can check if RX voltage is selected by: Parameter - Home Desp - Rx BatT

Tom I would think a Wooden boat build thread would be enjoyed by all classes. I look forward to seeing it.

Nice job, looking forward to following your build.

Lee Valley also sail 6m year round. I am still able to walk the bank but in some cases would prefere a fairly fixed control area. What would be even better would be those walking the bank to walk behind those that are static. Far too often I see the walkers blocking the view of those that choose to stay in one place, to me it is like the annoying people under aking on the motorway.

Brad thanks for the reply. The original crane and backstay is at the bottom of the Bournville pond after a gust inducing summersault, but was tight to the sail originally. the bodged replacement using a piece of stainless from one of Damian's vane gears was rather further away, which as you say definitely made matters worse to the point that on the run the jib did not look like it had a boom attached. thankfully both the jib and main were spilling plenty of power so the boat went forward and not impersonating a submarine. The shrouds are 12mm behind the mast but I have the option of moving them back to 25mm. So I think for this weekend I will just repair the rig to pre nationals spec. (better the devil I know for the two comps this weekend) Then next week will give a pultruded tube a try with lowered and further back shrouds. Thanks to all, Steve

Thanks John very helpful.

Thanks for the reply john. Yes I have thought of giving pultruded tube a try and probably will. 12 to a 14mm tube is not an option for this boat. The built in mast tube is 12.5mm wide plus the the gooseneck pivots round the mast on 12mm id ballraces. Although I could try sliding a 14mm tube over a 12mm stub mast down to the top of the gooseneck. Easy Composites do a 10mm tube with a .5mm wall that I could possibly run down the top half of the mast. I already have a piece of 10mm x 1mm wall from the mast foot to 60mm above the gooseneck. I have 1 pair of shrouds with a spreader. The shrouds attach to the mast at the same height as the forestay. I am reasonably happy with the mast bend below this point but above is a different story, far to much flex for not much more jib tension. To be fair the boat goes very well in light winds with this soft set up. As a last resort I could use the groovey mast from my Ravenna. There was some pictures of 56 my Kalulu on the 6m Nationals report but they have disapeared for now.

After the Nationals last weekend I have come to the conclusion that I need a stiffer mast than the rolled 12mm carbon tube from Easy Composites I have at the moment. Other than 2 one metre lengths of high modulus carbon for well over £100 are there any other options?

Although I agree with Rohan the Alternative is a great boat an easier option would be a Corbie. When you buy the drawings, you get a comprehensive build manual that includes the rig. Further to that SLEC who as you are an aeromodeller will know, laser cut the sections at a reasonable cost. I also have permission to produce kits for the Nighthawk design which is an all ply chined hull designed in New Zealand. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3320635-Plywood-IOM&highlight=nighthawk The boat is going well by all accounts.

A friend uses two pack aerosol with good results no idea of make though. I have been using this https://u-pol.com/product/coatings/clearcoats/s2080-superior-hs-clearcoat/

dont forget you will need a new rig set to fit the A+ sails https://www.radiosailing.co.uk/dragonforce-65-a-rig-assembly---kit-1135-p.asp

Richard I use U-Pol available in various size containers. I have never tried to brush, always use a touch up spray gun. My newly finished 6m has a gloss hull and a satin rudder. the reason is my wife chose the colour and caught me rubbing down the rudder and told me off as it was no longer shiney.🙄

I would rub down and fill any dings with whatever epoxy you used originally then use 2pack clear with UV protection to get the gloss back before cutting back with 1000 w&d for a fast satin finish. Or leave gloss and go a bit slower.

Where can "MYA TO updated rules" be found?

Damian any further news on this?

I can vouch for the Isis. Mine also performs very nicely in light airs, which is a bonus. Mine will be a forever boat.

Dave I have just resubmitted. Have any mailings been sent out yet?

Or here https://bluefoam.co.uk/