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tiggy_cat

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About tiggy_cat

  • Birthday 19/02/1952

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  • First Name
    Ian
  • Last Name
    Bell

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  1. So much for reducing your fleet!
  2. I have some shrink wrap silicon tube that I put over the tow to tidy things up when finished.
  3. To avoid splitting on the bottom end on my c/f tube masts, I buy a piece of suitable sized wood dowel and epoxy that inside. Gives the screws from the gooseneck something to bite into.
  4. Probably an Assegai IOM design.. Think that LVMYC would refer to Lee Valley Model Yacht Club. http://www.leevalleymyc.org.uk/ . With the number on the original sails (99), the IOM class Registrar might be able to unearth some details of its prior life. The design itself is referred to briefly, here https://www.pryc.co.uk/classic-iom-class
  5. Actually, I disagree. The sections of the rule that would deem it NOT outside help would seem to be d) and e) .. If skipper A was asking for others views, then e) does not apply as it states "unsolicited" help which it plainly would not be. As for rule 4.2 d) is the information freely available to all competitors ? Really not sure that this is meant to include racing incidents, more course details etc. that all sailors would have been briefed on.
  6. "Skipper ‘A’ continues to be vocal and requests for anyone within the fleet, if they saw the incident. No one comes forward" While discussing rules, if someone had come forward and agreed with Skipper A, would he not have laid himself open to calls of receiving outside assistance? . Isn't that in itself a contravention of rules?
  7. When I make up c/f masts, I have taken to epoxying hardwood dowel into the bottom, far enough up to give the screws fixing the gooseneck something to bite into, Once fixed, the gooseneck gets a top /bottom/middle wrap of carbon tow epoxied around it, then a piece of heat shrink tube over it to tidy it up. The dowel is available off of Ebay as is the heat shrink, and all my c/f tube , resin etc comes from Easy Composites. I use their Woven Finish Roll Wrapped Carbon Fibre tubes, i.e the £12 end of the market. Possibly , you could adapt some of the above to attempt repair before replacement
  8. Hi Riv, Should you need materials, this is a starting point. http://www.cedar-strip.co.uk/model_boats.html#content6-ay
  9. I bought a licence to build a Cerberus from Frank Russell but never proceeded with it. I have a friend who is an expert hull moulder living locally. He built a plug and mould for the Cerberus and made a couple of hulls in carbon. He was showing me his when I visited last week and reckoned that it was the best sailing 6 metre he had ever had. I bought one of his Romanza hulls ( see pic) last year and that sails well. Just need a bit more time on the water to get used to it and a couple of more sails for it. Just to say that all the hulls built have had the appropriate fees paid to the designer.
  10. This is one that Eric has had on Ebay and I made a bid on. Tentatively identified as a Lewis Cats Whiskers or possibly Cat's Paw. From its looks, almost certainly an A class I would have thought. Can't see this being thought of as a 10R, , though it could have been measured as such, I suppose . Measurements on the tape stuck to the hull are almost identical to those in Lewis's design book for Cats Whiskers.
  11. There is always Nookie Bear, available as a plan from Sarik (https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/nookie-bear-radio-10-rater-plan/) OR Vic Smeed's Spook (All Radio Sailboats - Design: Spook) If you are into 3D printing, there are a couple of options herehttps://3dprintedradioyachts.com/10-bananas-10r-first-major-regatta/
  12. Can be seen on the appropriate page in the 10R section of All Radio Sailboats webpage.
  13. If you are sailing 10 inches away from another boat and then turn sharply into the other and collide, then your "interesting discussion" on the shore may NOT be about the rules of sailing. Especially with the other skipper, never mind a protest committee.
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