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Richard98

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Richard98 last won the day on March 8

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About Richard98

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    Richard
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    Moroney

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  1. Derek, Like to see some pics of the boats here. Have used "Haslar" vane gear full size, but this is a trim rudder servo rather than the models (has more work to do) Would love to have a go at vane sailing, but no where suitable nearby - shame. Richard
  2. Great comments and I will try the Sails etc holders, Captain Scarlet. John; Worth explaining that I have actually no tangible problems, more of a suspicion and doubts. I was using a FlySky, that you mentioned in passing, on a carbon / Kevlar M and suspected loss of full control at distance. Do you think I may be better off using my other kit: Futaba T6J-FHSS TX ? If so I will buy another RX, in which case do you have a recommendation on the RX ?
  3. Very generous of you, John, and your diagnosis of the patient and donor made interesting reading. Nice to know where to go for these sort of problems. Richard
  4. Pic of Pieces of Eight sailing with a Starkers M, rigged as a 10R. Thought it liked nice. Richard
  5. I am looking for the best position of the two receiver aerials for carbon Marblehead. I have tried the underside of the deck patch, but was aware that this was not the best. I have read Lester Gilberts's article also. Is it worth siting in the screw lid of the pot ? I can see little evidence of aerials sticking up on pictures of boats. What is the common/usual arrangement ? Richard
  6. You've hit the nail on the head, John, regarding light airs performance. I have discovered, possibly the "B" obvious, that there are other factors that apply to shortening the WL that do not have the same relative effect at full size. I also suspect that a Marblehead is the way to go, as you have done. I have sailed Pieces of 8 with a One Metre (2.3Kg) ballast ,on max length fin, in light winds and seems to work ok. I began to look at wing sails and there are plenty of scale modellers who have made them. But not to race. I wanted a full wing shape with hinged trailing edge. Super efficient but also super complicated. So many bits required to maintain the camber all the way up that the whole thing becomes too heavy and complex. Once again; so much easier full size. Popping a semi soft sail is tricky and takes power off just when you need it. I like the pocket luff rigs and there is scope to develop in that area. What happened to your Gothic hull ? Did you build over a foam core ? Any pics ? The reason for my interest is my dormant project for a foiling hull. The old carbon Kevlar M hull that I acquired as a "skip job" has too much volume and is a very old design. Wish I had not sold my Starkers, also acquired as "needing work". Have you tried a lighter ballast on the Starkers for light winds ? could be interesting.
  7. 10R design options once more: My Pieces Eight represents one extreme design and I would like to look at the other: Max Wl / min Sail area. I do wholeheartedly agree that the top 10R's excel in all conditions but the class allows so many opportunities for experimentation that it is difficult to resist. One of the attractions of the Mini40 also. So what designs stray in that direction ? The aspects of our scale are so different to full size; particularly with respect to wetted area and possibly block coefficients. Here I am looking for any evidence for / against hull types for the 10R. Another boat to build ?? Frank Russell's Gothix perhaps ? Quick comment on the rules. I was part of Team New Zealand and remember the rule "discussions" that took place in court. Also the measurement process that meant cutting large holes in our expensive and painstakingly made hulls. PS. I do sail Richard
  8. Been doing just this with the Pieces of Eight. Very aware that the full 700mm is only just sailable where I sail. Have reduced ballast to 2.3Kg from 3.6. Reduced ballast has shortened the WL; will allow more Sail Area (SA) . Reduction in volume of ballast and Wetted surface area (WSA) is a plus. WSA is reduced twofold; on the ballast itself and the reduced underwater hull volume / area. Have not tried a shorter fin, but if I retain the same ballast then WL and hence SA remain the same but: The small reduction in volume with the shorter fin will make a small difference to the boats performance. Reduced wetted area and volume ; small I know. A small reduction in weight will, microscopically, reduce the WL. There will be dynamic differences also but these are so complicated to analyse. Don't even start on block coefficient in relation to reducing volume and hence WL. Really important question on an extreme design like Pieces of Eight. Also the skin friction having far greater, relative, effect at our size than full size. Need a test tank ! So many questions. If going down the two fins route, would multi certificate the boat, as Solent's comment. Allowing a SA tolerance to cover both options. Richard
  9. I have also been using King Max 61G winches for quite a few years now. One Metres, Marblehead, "special" 6M, Mini 40 and currently on my "pieces of eight" 10R. The new version, 68G has more torque, is a bit faster and Waterproof. I have done a quick calc using One Metre sheeting length and 6Volts for both. Sheeting times are: 61G 1.71 secs - 68G 1.49 secs. Torque: 14.5 - 17.8 Kg/cm respectively. Each using the new metal drum, 30mm dia, and a great improvement over the old plastic one 25mm dia. Adds an extra £6 but worth it. BUT !!!!! £27 now £47 However looks as though the 61G may not be available now. Still cheap though. Richard
  10. Have been contacted, through my website, by the owner of the boat described here. The pictures show a very nice wooden hull. The dimensions make it one of the larger classes, obviously. Possibly the horse box shown is used to transport it ! Dimensions (approx) in inches Loa 68", B 11", D 16", Mast above deck 69". Wt 7Lbs ( I know; does not seem a lot) Any ideas ? Richard
  11. Hello Nancy. Pikanto is a great boat from Graham Bantock and if you visit the Sails etc web site you can download the Pikanto drawing. This shows the dimensions to allow easy checking of the keel rake. Maybe you have just been mis informed and there is no problem. There should be a label moulded on the inside of the hull with details and I would be very surprised if there was an error in your hull. Please post your results and, if necessary, can think about how to modify. Good luck ! Richard
  12. Back again ! Paula I really understand your comments and complex rules can appear intimidating. Unfortunately in this "cheque book" sport philosophy these days, all the classes have lawyers keen to exploit vague rules. I had a few items on the 10R rules that were simply explained by some, more familiar with the class than me. I have become a firm fan of the class; never having raced one against another yet. I am a sailor that enjoys the design aspects and the consequent experimentation with development classes. The 10R offers the greatest scope and ease for such experimentation. I liked the comment from Brad that he builds a tolerance / safety factor of some 4-6mm WL on his designs, this makes so much sense and does a lot to encourage amateur efforts and avoids owners who demand gramme / mm precision and expect to argue with the measurer. I have built boats for owners who specify such requirements. This forum provides access to a wealth of knowledge, that I have gratefully plundered. Anyway; good 10R sailing, Richard
  13. Wow !! did not expect that. Last post then. Richard
  14. Here we are at last, sailing with full top rig. I have thoroughly got the hang of the 10R spreadsheet, thanks John. Sail area 1.083447 and a rating of 9.97 achieved. I have played with the spreadsheet to optimise the trimming required to suit the balance of the boat. I have marked potential reduction should the waterline not be spot on. Easy ! Pictures here with usual ghosting breeze Richard
  15. As a newcomer to this class I have now become quite familiar with the measurement spreadsheet and, ironically, now cannot see why I had problems initially. This forum has been so useful and through my thread as "potential 10 sailor" I am very grateful for the assistance and advice received from members. I must single out John; whose efforts pointed me to the error I had been making. This is the true value of this forum. I not only see a great attraction in the 10R class but find myself impressed by the spreadsheet. The errors referred to earlier are, however, irritating and maybe some sort of enhanced guide to it's use would not go amis as I also spent time trying to eliminate them. Only thing to sort out now would be a simpler keel depth measurement procedure, which would surely result in more measurers. Richard
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