Richard98

Back again !!!!! Please could I ask if anyone has the weight of a DF65 shell. I can easily deduct servo weights and rudder, if someone could spare a few moments to weigh their ready to race DF65 hull only. Much appreciated; Richard

Hi Derek, have sent you a message. Richard

Hi Richard, An old Ikon is still a great boat, just not a fashionable shape these days. There is also a Widget for sale on the site. Both these, and more, are still potentially competitive if up dated and would be absolutely ideal for anyone "working their way up the fleet". See Brad Gibsons articles on "pimping" older designs. Richard

Hi Tim, Thought you may be the one to ask; Any RG hulls lurking around that someone wants to dispose of ? Looking for one, preferably Carbon. Condition not important; can repair. Also do you know the typical hull weight ? Richard

Could someone weigh a bare DF95 hull for me ? I know the all up weight from the class rules. Thanks, Richard

A reply to Stevew I have also built a fin for a 6M project; see "not really a 6M". I note your selection of a Naca 0008 section which would have to be in a fin box. I selected a higher 0000 series number because the fin was external with a carbon tube up the centre; as Dave above. Also I wanted to utilise the extra lift in association with a trim tab. These sections are quite easy to fabricate in this configuration, but will require a more advanced / expensive moulded fin for the slimmer alternative. The boat did indeed sail higher as a result, but because I never managed to sail against another 6M I could not quantify the payoff in speed. All the same it was an interesting little project with a huge number of potential variables. Richard

Not a new idea by any means; Tee section booms were used on the old J class yachts after all. There is one fitted to an IOM sailing at our club, but I cannot recall seeing others. The idea is to form an end plate for the sail; as in aerodynamics this increases the effective length of the sail / wing. My boom is made from a cut down Sails etc section with an alloy plate glued on top. The existing clew fitting can be used as shown. The endplate is not 100%, being limited by the 20mm diameter rule and is therefore approx 10mm off the boom CL. The gauge is a piece of CF tube 20mm ID to show compliance with IOM Rule F.4.5. The yellow tape just allows it to be seen better. The pic shows the sail on my Alternative with the foot eased out for clarity. As I say, nothing new here but was wondering if anyone else has quantified it's effectiveness. I do not think it worth using for the jib boom however. There are several factors that may negate any advantages here but, once again, there may be other opinions. Endplate effect on sails is common for speed sailing. Windsurfers, yachts, multihulls etc; often using the deck or the boom. Richard

Response to recent request for info on fitting Finbox and well. Pictures show Dave Creed's Finbox bonded to well prior to setting into hull. Then a couple of shots of the assembly. I have tried all wood and also a single all-in moulding; just too heavy. PS. The 3 transverse beams are removed after fitting the deck. Richard

Martin, in answer to your question about the well and Finbox. I use Dave Creed's mouldings and trim to suit. FInbox projects through the hull and is bonded to the Well prior to setting up. Easy to align with Finbox fitted through the hull. I don't want to hijack this article so have attached some pictures to my article on Alternative build; to keep it all in one place. Hope that helps. Richard

Martin, I would recommend 2 part expanding foam. Much easier to use than the instant spray can stuff. I use CFS but there are others. It expands in a truly amazing fashion and always surprises on the volume it achieves. I use it for moulded hull cradles for transporting boats.See pics: keeps them really secure and snuggly. Never tried deep mouldings but am aware that it will produce a pressure in deep mouldings that could deform a pattern / mould. Richard

Martin, good source for XPS foam is easy composites. This stuff is so hard to find and they seem to have started stocking it recently. I sail Merlin Rockets so totally agree with wooden boat comments. However disagree about laser not being fragile !! Have had several ( lack of crew) and they are poorly built and fragile but the strict one design, ironically, does not allow improvements. Simpsons rule is hard work, and like you, I have no software apart from "excel" to do the number crunching. You must post your final hull shell weight. Richard

Thank you Olivier; found it as you said. Obscure indeed for what is supposed to be the major event for the class. I did as you advised and found the web site gently listed amongst the text. Contains the aforementioned videos and a list of the results - hooray ! The link is: 2022iomworlds.com Maybe your comment could provoke someone to write a report. Richard

Hi Eric and thanks for that. That was the same link I referred to for U tube drone videos. I found it by accident ! What I was looking for was the usual report of championships. Specifics of individual performances, interesting boat set ups with pics etc. A lot of effort must have gone into the videos, however and are much appreciated. Also the organisation of the event. Seems a shame that all that effort does not get a mention on the IOMICA site or even a link to the video. Richard

Have been looking for any reports from the IOM World championship. I did find some drone films on U tube; which were nice to look at. The IOMICA site has absolutely nothing at all. Details of boat designs and particularly any details of interesting boat set ups. Tactics employed for local conditions etc. Some pics would be useful too. Can learn so much from these competitive sailors. Richard

I know I shall be labelled a "luddite" for my comments here; to save time penning any negative responses. I do not like Facebook at all and seldom use it, apart talking Trimarans "down under". I remember the useful website for Multihulls and used it extensively when I built a "Ghost train" but trying to get useful info off FBK is a chore. Seems ideal for chatting though. Always jumbled articles etc. U tube often has some nice videos; usually discovered from the MYA forum links. There are some excellent and useful websites and I quote the "six metre sailing-weebly" site as being a good example. Loads of info and I found it very useful during my brief foray into the class. Websites have forums with easy to follow discussions, loads of pics, drawings, advice in response to questions raised and details of competitions. The MYA is first port of call for any class and it is excellent. I have received more assistance, advice, feedback and offers of equipment than I have a right to expect. Currently with the 10R / M classes. Often the One Metre and even dipping my toe in the US One Metre. MYA has it all. Anyway, only my small opinion so please just take them as that. Richard

I managed to meet the 1150 WL on my PoE. The only alteration I made to the lines was to make the bow vertical; possibly a slight benefit in forward buoyancy (very slight, I know, but at a long lever) What WL did you end up with, also resultant SA ? Did you note any advantage to the tumblehome ? As you know, I had a conventional rig. Also would have gone for the 2.3 luff. I know there must have been a reason for the rule change, but It seemed to detract from the boats' possibilities and was one reason I did not pursue the class any further. This is based on my predominately light to nil wind sailing venue and I admit I am a bit biased here.

Finally got round to giving my Alternative a refit. Main job was to re coat the hull. Never having been too pleased with the original epoxy finish. Sanded all of with 120 and proceeded to apply 3 coats XCR epoxy, wet on wet. Finishing with 120 dry followed by 400/800/1200 wet to achieve a super slippery finish. The epoxy is extremely hard and also adds strength to the cedar planking. The technicalities of weight are detailed, since these are vital for any one building in wood. Hull finish (epoxy) sanded of with 120. -10grms 3 coats XCR epoxy wet on wet. + 60grms. (20grms / coat) applied with roller Flat back as described above. -30 I have added 20grm to the boat but have a much tougher coating and have been able to sharpen the chines more. Super, super smooth hull. Richard

Thanks for all the replies and info. I decided to stay with the epoxy coating. Main reason is that it adds strength to the cedar planking and gives a very hard finish that flats down beautifully. Yes that right ! changed my mind about the attractive shiny finish. Went against my principle of function over form. The 1200 finish is so much more slippery than a nice shine. Sanded hull with 120 then I used XCR epoxy, 3 coats wet on wet. Dry sanded 120 then 400/800/1200 wet. Hull is now the best it has ever been and also managed to sharpen up the chines. Have added more details on my "Alternative" build thread. Richard

Thanks again Steve, I use U Pol 2025 white Hi build for ballast and foil coating. Nearly as good as epoxy Hi build but so much cheaper. Flats down with 1200 Wet and dry to a super slippery Finish and easy to brush apply for those particular applications. Which U Pol clear coat ? looking at 2080 series and some appear to be single pack. Diamond 2080 sounds about right ? Will have to invest in a sprayer and learn how to use. I don't suppose the U Pol aerosols are worth considering ??? Richard

Thanks Steve, Like you say, I too prefer the 1000 finish for a more slippery hull, but just keen to try a full gloss for looks and possibly flat off after. What 2 pack clear have you used ? Loads on market and a lot of it comes in quantities to suit a super yacht. Also application preference. I know one brushed coat is about 30grms and 2 will be about 45 total after inter coat sanding. Richard

Been sailing my Alternative for 5 years now and it has collected a few scrapes and knocks. I finished it in clear epoxy, mainly to strengthen the cedar planks and give a smooth finish. Not with any thoughts of "beautification" Going to do a refit and am considering a nice shiny coating now. I usually just go with the the aforementioned, technical approach and would appreciate any advice on options. A brushed varnish is going to be heavy, similarly a brushed coating epoxy; what about a spray lacquer ?? The existing surface would need prep; something like 100 wet & dry ? Recommendations / advice requested from those of you who produce "show standard" timber hulls; with the caveat of keeping weight down. For pics of the boat, go to my earlier Alternative build article on the forum. Thanks. Richard

Another interesting chined 10R Saw this on the Australian 10R site. Very similar concept to "Pieces of 8". Has a pronounced tumblehome. I believe it is a "Doubloon" by Peter Mitchell. Does have a UK registration number though. Anyone recognise it ? Richard

Hi Stephen, Cockatoo is a popular design in NZ and here also and a nice boat. The problem lies with the skiff type low aft deck. The most common solution that I have seen is the top part only of a radio pot, cut off and fixed into a hole cut in the deck. Silicon sealed. Allow sufficient pot body to span the deck curvature, of course. Screw lid on before fixing ! Now the controversial bit. A lot of skippers fix the electrics inside the bottom of the hull; some just as is and others with some sort of makeshift box. I remember that TS2 also used this arrangement, but did have the winch under the foredeck. Can't remember where the Cockatoo winch is though. Hope this helps. Richard

4 years down the line now and Alternative continues to sail well. Have often been asked about the boat when sailing; seems to be a popular design for home building. The only mod I have made is the fitting of a small Hitec waterproof servo (HS5086 WP) right on the rudder stock. This employs a small moulding made by Dave Creed. See picture for installation. Very effective and, because it is lighter than a typical rudder servo, does not have a negative effect being right on the end of the boat. Absolutely no play because there is no linkage. BUT the achievable angle is greater. Now this is useful when using the rudder as a brake; start line for example. Needs to be allowed for in normal sailing though. Have used this servo completely in the open on Mini 40 trimaran, but lives under the aft deck patch on Alternative. Richard

Ps Martin, See the IOM forum on "Alternative build" for info on mine. The foam approach takes loads of practise, unless you have experience of fairing surfboards or other such things. The attraction is that you end up with a mould. However the whole caboodle becomes scrap if not perfect. It is also messy and time consuming. Planking is simple and easy to start again if not happy. Just have to remember the three rules. 1. Keep the weight down. 2. Avoid any, no matter how small, excess weight. 3. both of the previous. Richard