Jump to content

Richard98

MYA Member
  • Posts

    89
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by Richard98

  1. Thank you for your interest, Eric and for your offer to sell me your Spook. I began building Roger Stollery's design last week and attach a picture of progress, so far. So I am not really looking for another boat any more. However, would be interested, as I'm sure others would be too, in details of your build and some pics if you felt like putting them up on the forum. Richard
  2. Thanks Solent. Like you I was also confused. As you say; the length for the boat stated on the IRSA may be assumed to be an average for the class. Not certainly though. This was my worry when I started my build. definitely outside those tolerances or average dimensions. Still not 100% certain though since the IRSA site seems quite specific on the length between 1.3 - 1.8M and also a clear definition on sail area too. 0.9 - 1.1 sq M. I have also noticed another web site: ITCA which reflects more what I thought the class was. There is so little information on the class on the web sites and no forum discussion on the MYA site at all. I have read and digested the class rules and understand the rating formula; which I like. Just ploughing through the WS, IRSA, MYA and now ITCA to glean info seems a bit protracted. Anyway, looking forward to an exciting boat to sail.
  3. Thanks Solent. I have familiarised myself with the class rules and it is the 10R formula that I particularly like, to produce an interesting boat. It is mainly the confusing information or none at all; that exists on the various class sites; particularly the one that limits the overall length. I am aiming for a WL of 1150 and have good ideas on the allowable rig that that will enable. I note your advice that overall length Is not a controlling measurement though and I am going for the GBR 10R class rule from the MYA class info here. I have the bits and pieces now and am starting the build. Will put some pics up as I go, if anyone is interested. Richard
  4. Totally agree with those comments. I fitted a modern fin and bulb to both a Red Wine and an Image (same as Ikon) with significant improvement over the original. Not too difficult to do; just a bit of care filleting the fin into the square section finbox. The mast blocks solve the problem fitting a ram on a flat deck boat and they work well. What you end up with is the designers settings without needing to know anything about the rake angle. Some great older designs out there and so rewarding to bring "up to speed" literally. Just "discovered" the 10R class, but that is another story. Richard
  5. Hi Michael. Red wIne is a great boat. Mast rake is adjusted by a set of blocks from Sails etc. They come in a set of three and they effectively provide the best rake settings for the rigs. No need to measure anything. Richard
  6. John, you are an absolute hero. Many thanks for all your help. Richard
  7. Just familiarising myself with the 10R rating formula before building my boat. Seems not so complicated after all, until I looked at the web site for the two versions. The IRSA 10R web site states a length of 1.3 to 1.8M and a sail area 0.9 - 1.1 sq M. This seriously alters my concept of the boat since I am aiming outside both these parameters. I can find no reference to an over all length or sail area restriction in the 10R Class rules on the MYA pages here, and the rating formula make the class quite an exciting concept. Are these two different classes ? There seems little actual information about the boat on either web site. One is for the IRSA and the other GBR is WS IRSA. Do I need to join the WS, IRSA and / or MYA to race a 10R ? Sorry if this seems a silly question. Richard
  8. Thanks again John, I have sent you a message with my contact details etc. Your A will be suitable as a B for me. I would love to sort through your sail collection, but just too far away, I'm afraid. Just noticed your post about sail areas; I have used Simpson's also. Especially for hull calcs. Richard
  9. Thanks John. What I have done, particularly with the Mini40's was to use old sails as a starting point, rather than just getting new sails. Unlike my One Metre where sails are much more tightly defined and better bought from the many excellent sailmakers. I have used the Claudio gadget with reasonable results, but never what proper sailmakers achieve. With old sails I can easily add to foot or head, or even add a pocket luff all around decently formed camber. Rough, I know, but a cost effective way to experiment. I had considered a Bentley bare moulding before finding Pieces of 8, which suits my requirements nicely. WL about 1150 so will take a tall rig, which is exactly what I need. Really appreciate your offer and interest in my latest project and may I ask what the dimensions of the rigs are ? Obviously I will also need smaller rigs as well so a small luff A may be ideal as a B for me. So yes: may be very useful please. Maybe you could also advise if most folk use a mast stub and a single gooseneck, to. A keep the mast shorter for transport and B keep the cost down with only the one compression gooseneck. Thanks again, Richard
  10. Building my first 10R and will be looking out for any useable sails that someone may have loafing around and would care to re-home. Specifically a max luff, or close, top suit to start with. Richard
  11. Now have lines for "Pieces of Eight" thank you Roger. Looks a really interesting boat and was designed for the light flukey conditions that I sail in regularly. I will shortly start the build. I have changed my design requirements, as you may have noticed. The original long WL was to suit a potential foiling boat. I like the look of the 10R class so much that I have decided to go down the "class: route and will build a 10R accordingly I am looking for a max luff top suit, in useable condition , if any one has any spare sails they do not need. Will place a note on the "wanted" also.
  12. Thanks Dave; have contacted the Round Pond and got some useful info. Also lots of info from Australia. Thanks also Ditton Dabler. Have been down the Marblehead route some time ago. My current interest in the 10R is to sail a boat with a really useful WL. The idea of the chined hull was to build something really quickly, not necessarily competitive. For example my last MIni40 centre hull only took a few days to knock together. Will follow up leads on other boats. Richard
  13. Thanks John, looked like a short WL as you confirm; Enterprise analogy noted. What I need is a design with a long WL and, obviously narrow beam. Where can I find a list of boats and their characteristics ? Problem is that 10R's seem incredibly rare despite looking like a very interesting and exciting class. Not a sniff of any older design (not vintage I must add) hull for sale anywhere.
  14. Thank you Tiggy_cat, had a look at those two. Both pretty heavy displacement hulls I'm afraid. Pieces of Eight looks about the sort of hull ; Thank you Shaun. Long and thin and easily adjusted from lines for a 4Kg all up weight. Will try to see if any lines are available.
  15. Looking to build a 10R since there seem to be no second hand hulls around. I remember seeing a chined design on here some time ago, but can no longer find it. I know that this hull form is not necessarily the best, but I can cobble one together in a few days; as previously done for a foiling Mini40 not so long ago (now sold on) Also cheap as chips and light enough to come close to CF in that hull form. Can anyone point me in the direction of the lines for that chined 10R ?? I do remember that it was a well known designer. Richard
  16. Agree with you there John. I did put a few M's together with a specific request to make them dual rated. I tried a 10R rig on the M and was impressed with the "upgrade" Obviously not going to compete with the 10R hull in a wind, but boy; did it go. I also briefly tried a 10R rig on my Starkers and, once again, it was like adding a supercharger. GB beat the 10R's with the Paradox in light winds, so could almost come down to where you sail. Richard
  17. Thanks John and Eric. I am looking at CR2020, which I assume must be more up to date than the 2018 issue. So the max fin length , with ballast attached, is 660mm then the hull draft is added giving a draught of >700mm. That sort of equates to the 10R for the purposes of dual rating and is what I will aim for. When I built Paradoxes the draught was a mere 600mm. Thinking ahead to next project. Richard
  18. When I had my Marblehead I was aware that, despite having a very long fin, newer boats were even longer. Therefore I could not expect to compete with them, except in light winds. My fin was already too deep for our main sailing venue and these considerations led to me selling the boat. What is the maximum draft allowed ? Measurement rule C5.2 only refers to a gauge with no indication as to what size it should be. Just curious really.
  19. Back on the water and I have realised that I love these big boats. So many different considerations compared to the full waterline, slimmer boats. I now have a B rig and I attach pictures for comparison. Some will recognise the origin of this B rig. That gives me 1.0sq M and 0.6 sq M respectively on the same luff length of 1720mm. I realise that the boat is way too stiff and have reduced the ballast to 5Kg, which brings the overall weight to <8kg. The A rig brings the boat up to hull speed very quickly and it needs to heel to bring in the free additional waterline provided by the overhangs. Hence the ballast reduction Changing down to the B rig takes 2 minutes and is soooooo easy with the shroudless rig. Therefore the boat remains in its speed groove better. I anticipate an IOM B rig as the C rig for this boat and this combination should see it sailing consistently within its "sweet spot" Also going to reduce the trim tab area a bit more, although I have still not been able to evaluate it against another boat yet. The boat draws considerable attention due to its impressive size and is proving a joy to sail Richard
  20. Assume you back up to the water and launch off that ramp with the boat on a trolley. Neat. Richard
  21. I can confirm that what Brad recommends does work. I used his settings for standing rigging and bent the mast accordingly. Then a little trial and error with the ram and shrouds produced the desired result. Boat "Alternative" Brad Gibson, Sails BG. Can only reiterate that pre bend is essential and will not necessarily be the same values for different sailmakers sails and rig set up. Richard
  22. Hi again John, Just re visiting your US 1M having noticed that you have changed to shroudless and therefore forestalled my question. Worth pointing out to potential new class members; that the sail area you quoted is just the triangle area and that a substantial free roach area is up for grabs. My target for my dual rated project boat seems to be 525600 sq mm which is approaching the IOM sail area. (rough calc only) This small difference may be what made the initial sailing in the company of a US 1M so close when balanced with the reduced displacement and wetted area. I really like your pocket main and would be interested to hear how you configured the pocket. I have resorted to multiple tabs on any test sails I have made; sort of works but not ideal. Also are you using a built up mast to obtain a nice luff curve and still maintain a consistent wing effect at the training edge ? Fully understand if any of this forms a "trade secret" but I am always experimenting with these fundamentals, often with surprising effects. Richard
  23. Legal rig ??? Just been re visiting the 6M rules after looking at some older posts on the subject of rigs. I know that the rule allows only one mast and my carbon un stayed mast is legal. However it appears that a pocket luff mainsail is not prohibited. 5.3.2 states that "double luff mainsails are prohibited" Why are no 6M's being rigged with un stayed masts and pocket luff mains ? Richard
  24. Hi Robin, my two, old, well used Star yachts just straddle the models you have. SY4 and Endeavour 1V. Not sailed either for a very long time. I have re rigged though and stuck with the white string and dowel spars. Looks nicer and works with the original bowsies. Endeavour's sails are a little "mothy" now but still look ok. There are loads of pics of all the boats on the internet. Widget is still a handy IOM and I remember the Cockatoo, which was popular in New Zealand; most of the fleet at Glenfield I remember. Richard
  25. Hi Guzzilazz, there is no need for the complexity of metallurgical analysis here; it is simply a question of mechanics. The pre bend requires backstay to just to bring it straightish and this is the starting point. The forestay tension to get to this point alone is the bonus that pre bend gives and the reason it is so important. More pre bend = more forestay tension for a given luff shape plotted down to less tension for less. We are stuck with a very flexible alloy tube and it is very important to match the pre bend to the sailmakers luff profile and this is not easy. Get it in the wrong place and you will have problems. That is a good reason to ask the sailmaker, or get them to do it, what the mast bend position and amount should be. Like so many settings, there are no empiric values and settings provided by experienced sailors will not necessarily suit all; but are invaluable as starting points. Personally I prefer side shrouds , but have yet to win the World Championship of course. Experimentation is great fun and the best way to understand the value of any adjustments. Richard
×
×
  • Create New...