Colin Helliwell

That's not a bad price. Showerproof has to be a must, surely, otherwise a risk of occasional problems? I am - as a software engineer by profession - no Luddite, but I am still reserved about A Fleet for my club. I've no doubt I could use it, but at the end of the day my feeling is still "everyone can use a pen and paper"... It's interesting to hear the wider experiences tho.

For how much dosh have folk been able to acquire such a tablet?

In an only vaguely similar vein (thinking of crossovers or differences to dinghy sailing), is RC Team Racing something that's ever been tried...?

Very smart!! How far off is the plan for adding foils...? :)

Yes, that might be it, tho it means choosing it first off on opening the page. It can't be everything perfect to everyone I guess :)

Where there's a section panel e.g. 'Class Chat - IOM', could a "New" tag be put on topics? (Or Bold vs. Normal on the subject) Edit: 'new' for me, that is

That's what I'm finding too. Admittedly I've only been the new website a couple of times, so maybe not got dialled into it yet, but it doesn't so far feel as easy to quickly see where there's new posts The pictures against the sections are nice, but make the whole page longer to go down thru.

How much current does an iom winch need? (18awg wire will do 7A). A futaba might be even more likely to overheat under top-end load because of minimal contact area - squarish peg in maybe similar squarish hole, compared with snug cylindricalisity of the xt design. Or if you slap random 'grease' all over the contacts (why do people do that?) I wouldn't use futaba on an iom, but xt30 is plenty chunky enough. Sadly roger, many batteries are xt60 - overkill for us.... (Which has me in the frame to solder new connectors onto a couple of new batteries for a mate next week, again... lol)

It's still a sailing boat, so nearly all principles still hold good. Comimg from dinghies you might find the concept a backstay new to begin with...! Biggest differences i found when starting rc sailing (4 yrs ago) are trying to judge distances to boats/marks; and just the angst of not being able to tweak the rig, in-situ, at a moment's notice - once you launch, that's it for that race!

Ditto for me. I've read here of people refitting screw eyes etc, but since mine has been ok I've left well alone. Maybe there's variation in manufacturing quality

You could also check how much overall throw you have. If full-stick is 80 degrees over then that in itself if going to make it 'more sensitive'. (I'd defer to views of actual experts, but I go for about 40-45degrees each way at most - and using all of that should probably only be for emergencies, not standard tacking?)

In part I reckon its getting used to whatever setting you go with. Change car and you might think the steering is too sensitive but within days you'll adjust. So I wouldn't want to be changing setting on different legs - one more thing to forget in the heat of the moment and get thrown off by! Keep it simple and '2nd nature' feeling... I use expo on df95, but not on iom - but its only preference and what I'm adjusted to.

Roger's question, I just happened to be in the vicinity. (Well - 8 or so places back, as usual lol)

To clarify: windward (plus spreader) leeward course.

Sorry to hear that. Yep, discharge outside is obviously wise - at just a low gentle current, no need to rush it.

Anything swollen is too much!! lipo or life Not worth the risk of keeping it, even with a competent charger. Dispose of it responsibly, and replace. Ideally, find out why it swelled too, so as to avoid in future. Never mind it going off in the boat - what if it goes off in your house....?! I don't think LiPo is necessarily more dangerous than LiFe - both have lithium and pack a punch if mistreated. From the point of view of designing efficient charger circuitry they're actually much easier than NiCd or NiMh. Far easier algoritm to charge them right.... its just more disastrous if you don't....

General consensus with our members is that the wind is always several knots less than the forecasts (bbc, even predictwind) predict. Backed up by our on-site gear (http://cswindstation.duckdns.org:5772/public-dashboards/a81154154edc4a028f24ae236e1a7919) Even the direction often ends up being 10s of degrees away from 'expected'. At which point, as John says, the forecasts are taken just at hints of the coming trends rather than absolutes!

Good rules will make most scenarios clear and unarguable. Those which don't aid determining a fair resolution might be superfluous and take away more than they add...

Trying to picture how a windward boat caused you to be ocs... hmmm, ok maybe he hooked you - definitely a freak/unfortunate accident! But redress for a start line incident? Not sure how you can argue that that is deserved; just the plain penalty of the moment. What sort of race/heat redress can you claim, so immediately? Perhaps you were indeed infringed - but if that's a right to redress then our rules really are a pointless mess.... With no offence intended, just a degree of "Eh?!!"

I've had to find that option in HMS a few times! 😉

So if "the committee reason that [someone's] turn was admission of fault", that would be an incorrect ruling? (In your view - with it being a hypothetical case )

Is there a rule which defines a boat having taken a 'penalty turn', or for any other reason having tacked and gybed in the same direction, as an explicit admission of guilt for something/anything? Surely that would just discourage people from, if they not too sure, simply doing a sporting thing.

https://www.sailsetc2.com/index.php/hook-795.html (Other similar hooks are doubtless avaliable )

I've rerigged a couple of masts - with solid wire shrouds - with a hole on each side, feed the wire in and up out of the top of the mast, then bend each to form around a bowsie and slide back into the mast. As mentioned earlier - sailsetc 'rigging guide' shows this method. It's really neat, but fiddly as hell to get the lengths right (and not get them wrapped round each other inside). I favour one hole on the front face, with a single hook which the shrouds are crimped/wrapped onto. As Larry described. My current rig happens to have a heatshrink sleeve over it: a) stops it falling out while rigging (but so does a piece of tape...); b) reduces windage a bit (but then how perfect are your mark roundings and tacking...?) I'm more bothered about getting equal lengths (i.e. rig upright port/starboard) than the ideal attachment method. Just keep it reliable, robust, and simple.

I wouldn't expect a new receiver to make a difference- it's a very digital/logic-level beast, not a lot it can do to behave slightly differently. The signal to servo is the timings of pulses, not absolute voltage levels. Check all rcvr connections are clean n dry tho!