Corrosion X

[David Norris]

Any suggestions as to alternatives to Corrosion X? There seem to be supply issues with this product currently.

David

[Downbytheriver]

Corrosion.co.uk seems to have 500ml spray bottles in stock

[David Norris]

Thank you for that. I will get on it straight away

[Downbytheriver]

That’s corrosion-x.co.uk sorry for the error

[David Norris]

Yes. I did find that thanks. Your steer was good! They’re asking £7.80 FedEx postage. I might just wait for RC sailing to restock. They have not been able to give me a date for that.

[Stephen B]

How and on what components do people use this?

begineer asking

[David Norris]

Hi. I’m also a beginner, but everyone at the club I have joined seems to use it on their electrics. Apparently, water ingress and condensation can be a corrosive issue.

[Stephen B]

What general spray all over everything, reciever, winch and servo?

[David Norris]

Google DF95 corrosion and you should get plenty of You Tube alternatives. Chuck Le Mahieu likes to give advice. Is he on commission?

[David Norris]

Anyone out there, with a bit more experience, have any pearls of wisdom to offer?

[yachtsman]

Hi David,

I’ve used corrosive X on receivers & servos but in all honesty I can’t comment on how good it has performed.

I’ve not used it in side my tx though.

Before considering corrosive X make sure the boat is watertight in all normal conditions. To me  C X is the bolt after shutting the door.

After sailing ALWAYS allow the boat to breathe by removing a hatch cover or patch & only refit just prior to sailing again & you shouldn’t have any corrosion issues.

 

[Stephen B]

You tube Chuck Le Mahieu appears to Flood the edges of all components and re assemble. Mine are all just installed in boat, and IOM the same

what do others do or use in their boats, I just try to keep my boat dry

Edited December 31, 2022 by Stephen B

[David Norris]

Thanks Barry. That sounds like great advice. 

[Martin Brooking]

Happy New Year everyone! For what it's worth, my experience from a brief spell of membership at Eastbourne is that salt water (and it's only slightly salty on Eastbourne's lake) is a killer. In fresh water like we have at Hunts there is very little problem, provided you follow yachtsman's advice on keeping everything dry.

My personal belief is that the the pesky Futaba-type connectors are especially prone to problems because they are so small and use tiny, thin connectors. They're very difficult to dry - especially so for those that push into the receiver (unless you're prepared to pull them off and reattach them regularly). I've not used Corrosion X, but I have worked a light grease into the open sides and ends of the connectors to help prevent water from reaching the small metal components.

Recently I experience "battery failure" on my DF95. This was actually the connector on the battery having finally succumbed to corrosion. I think the battery is OK, but interestingly it's one I used at Eastbourne, so it has had some exposure to salt. I will replace the connector and give it a go (and protect the new connector).

I would be interested to hear others views on how salt water compares to fresh when it comes to RC electrics.

 

[Mike Ewart]

Apart from its electrical properties CX is a good lubricant on bearings goosenecks etc especially if you sail in saltbwater

[Derek Priestley]

15 minutes ago, Martin Brooking said:

Happy New Year everyone! For what it's worth, my experience from a brief spell of membership at Eastbourne is that salt water (and it's only slightly salty on Eastbourne's lake) is a killer. In fresh water like we have at Hunts there is very little problem, provided you follow yachtsman's advice on keeping everything dry.

My personal belief is that the the pesky Futaba-type connectors are especially prone to problems because they are so small and use tiny, thin connectors. They're very difficult to dry - especially so for those that push into the receiver (unless you're prepared to pull them off and reattach them regularly). I've not used Corrosion X, but I have worked a light grease into the open sides and ends of the connectors to help prevent water from reaching the small metal components.

Recently I experience "battery failure" on my DF95. This was actually the connector on the battery having finally succumbed to corrosion. I think the battery is OK, but interestingly it's one I used at Eastbourne, so it has had some exposure to salt. I will replace the connector and give it a go (and protect the new connector).

I would be interested to hear others views on how salt water compares to fresh when it comes to RC electrics.

 

Fleetwood salt kills electrics!!  got to keep it out at all costs.

 

[Darin Ballington]

Got to agree with Derek, only place on a par with Fleetwood is West Kirby....

Check you boat is water tight, check yourpot lid is on correctly, then check again, unless you want to get off home early!

[Martin Brooking]

1 hour ago, Mike Ewart said:

Apart from its electrical properties CX is a good lubricant on bearings goosenecks etc especially if you sail in saltbwater

Good point. I remember now that I had to replace the gooseneck bearings on my DF65 & DF95 after only a few weeks at Eastbourne. Again, not a particular problem in fresh water.

[Bill Green]

I can only speak from repairing and supplying RMG winches for over twenty years, can I say please apply a very light touch with any silicon based lubricant. Be careful using WD40 as it contains constituents that leech plastic out of the nylon gears. Especially when sailing in salt water, with salt comes sand and crystals when they dry out. Add in silicon and all this does is to create a sloppy gunge that clags up a gearbox. The nett result is the clogged  gearbox that just seizes up and inevitably burns out the motor and possibly the Controller. An RMG gearbox is manufactured out of a nylon based material that is self lubricating and does not any need any further “assistance”

On the subject of Futaba battery connectors and again RMG and Red Ant winches. Futaba connectors are intended for model aircraft use, model aircraft rarely get wet , linking the RC parts to the RX. They are not intended to get damp or wet and corrode very quickly. Even when new they are rated at 0.75amp that very quickly drops when corrosion sets in. Either of the winches can draw up to 8amps, other winches draw less current, when pushed. The nett result of trying to get 8amps through a connector rated at best 0.75amps will result in either some very warm wires or in the case if an RMG a “brown out” where the winch, if set up properly will detect an excess current draw and temporarily shut down until normality returns. This usually happens when heading downwind to a mark and sheeting in to round up, it’s not unknown for a boat to carry straight on. 
 

I can hear the cries of “that’s never happened to me” and “ I use those connectors” To which I say “you’re lucky”, if a certain persons law comes into play that says “if it can, it will, exactly when you don’t want it” then prevention is the only answer. There is nothing more frustrating that to be in a good racing position for the kit to let you down. For connectors use XT30, XT60 or Deans for connectors and be frugal with lubricants. Yes I know battery suppliers inevitably fit Futaba but these can always be changed or you can get the supplier to fit the appropriate connector in the first place. 
 

If anyone has any queries please contact me and I’ll do my best to help

[John949]

I agree with Bill WD40 is terrible stuff and evaporates to leave a crusty residue.  I won't have it in the house.  If you need to free things off then use proper penetrating  oil.  A little Vaseline on the gears if you must, but it is not needed.

I've seen many people use battery wires that are way too thin. For an RMG the absolute minimum is 1.3mm diameter ands that's the conductor not the insulation.  If the wire is too thin or the connector is not rated for the current then this puts too much resistance in the circuit so that the voltage seen by the winch electronics drop below its operating threshold and causes it to cut out for a few seconds.

By chance I was playing with an old Graupner winch this morning that had a related issue.  If you waggled the rudder stick vigorously the BEC in the winch can't supply enough current and the receiver drops out and both servos freeze for a few seconds.  Some of the early RMGs only had a 1 amp BEC and so could also have this problem.  

[Bill Green]

Thanks John, it’s nice to know I’m not a lone voice crying into the wind. If you could see what sometimes crosses my work bench you could shed tears.