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Everything posted by Trevor

  1. Thanks Richard. I have ordered unidirectional tubes (epoxy bound) so I can use them for both replacing and sleeving (internal) but think I might use them so quickly I need both sorts! I also got tow and tape for local reinforcement as you say around the backstay. I am wondering about a technique for applying tow by attaching the end to the tube with a spot of cyano, winding around a wetted tube, holding down with another spot of cyano before wetting out and taping. Some winding might be done on my lathe. When I say injecting epoxy I just mean opening up the splits and wiping resin in and letting it cure as with three or four splits it may be difficult to hold the tube round while winding. Cheers Trevor
  2. Does anybody have a preferred method to fix split masts. I know I should probably replace the tubes but these are very old C1, C2 and C3 rigs and the sails are not worth spending much on. I have one in particular that has come apart between the lower sections leaving half a dozen splits at the end of the bottom bit. Would injecting epoxy into the cracks and binding with CF Tow or Tape be OK? Other masts have splits at the gooseneck (particularly where screw have been used!). Same technique I assume? Cheers Trevor
  3. Whoops I didn't spot that the file names wouldn't be visible! I have edited to show Rev 1 left and Rev 2 right. Actually if you right mouse click to save as, you can see Erev1.mp3 and Erev2.mp3 at the beginning of the file name. Cheers Trevor
  4. Rob sent me the two sound files that identify which E model winch revision you have so I thought I would post them in case anyone else finds them useful. The left tone Is E Rev 1. The right tone is E Rev 2. Cheers Trevor Erev1.mp3 Erev2.mp3
  5. Hi Michael, Starkers cubed, Isis and Cockatoo IOMs. Still working through the Marblehead rigs which need a lot of repairs to split carbon and loose fittings. Maybe I'll hang them vertically when they're done so I can keep track. Cheers Trevor
  6. Thanks Martin. That sounds like the way to do it. Cheers Trevor
  7. I have a couple of sails where the numbers have been altered so many times the white coating on the sail material has come off leaving a clear patch. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Cheers Trevor
  8. My recently acquired marblehead has shroudless C1, C2 and C3 rigs, that have splits in the lower section of the masts. As I anticipate using these rarely for casual club racing, repair rather than replacement is preferred. Would pushing epoxy into the splits and/or sleeving be the way to go? If replacement is recommended can I use the £12.50 per metre tube rather than the £60 per metre stuff? Cheers Trevor
  9. Having just acquired two more yachts (Marblehead and IOM) in addition to my existing IOM. I find myself with eleven complete rigs and several spare sails. The rigs are currently hung horizontally in their sail bags. Maybe I should hang them vertically. I know they’d be better off flat but that takes a lot of space. What do you think?
  10. Thankyou for your observations. Battery changing is not an issue as one charge is more than enough for our club mornings. I will do as suggested and stick with a patch but fit a deck switch so I don't have to lift the patch to turn on when I get to the lake in case it's raining and the patch won't stick 'cos it's wet. One day I might fit a pot in the style of the Sailsetc solution and use the rudder servo patch for ventilation. Incidentally I have two fan belts fixed to my garage roof that go round the fin and support the hull vertically so any water can drain from the bow hole which greatly speeds up drying. Cheers Trevor
  11. Hi Dave As you can see the winch is deck mounted so large access is required. Maybe a clip on GRP hatch would facilitate post sail ventilation as well. Maybe a deck patch is simpler? Cheers Trevor
  12. Hi I have just acquired this boat and note that the winch is in front of the mast. Other pictures I have seen have both servos in front of the mainsheet post under a circular cover. Does it make a difference who built the hull as to where things go? Cheers Trevor
  13. Hi I am overhauling my Cockatoo which has the radio and battery fixed inside the hull with velcro under a square deck patch. I'm thinking there must be an access method that doesn't involve taking the patch off every time. Cheers Trevor
  14. Have you tried e-Magnets UK | Online Magnet Manufacturer and Supplier (e-magnetsuk.com) ?
  15. I don't quite follow what you are saying. The ESC must be plugged into the Throttle slot on the RX or it wont receive a signal. Nothing is plugged into the RX battery slot unless you have a separate battery for the TX in which case the Red lead from the ESC must be disconnected. This is from the Spektrum manual.
  16. Either you have something plugged into the Receiver wrong or the Transmitter is set up wrong. Has this setup ever worked? Is it all new to you? Perhaps you could pull all the servos out of the RX and plug the throttle servo/ESC into each position until it works. The TX can do some clever stuff with channel mapping so you may need to do a reset and start from scratch. If you don't have them the manuals are available to download. Cheers Trevor
  17. Trevor

    Sheeting Out System

    Oh well it was a good idea while it lasted. My ISIS goes from 10th in the fleet to 3rd in light airs so I can’t complain! Now perhaps if I oil the gooseneck .......
  18. Trevor

    Sheeting Out System

    Following a very light air day it occurred to me that a system to fully sheet out the main sail would be jolly useful but I wonder if the rules allow such a thing. Rule C.5.4 (c) States:- Except where achieved by mechanical systems, automated control of rig and/or sails and automated steering and/or navigation are prohibited. Would a shock cord system that kept the main sheet under tension be allowed I wonder? Cheers Trevor
  19. Thanks for that. I found a you tube vid with a step through. I had been in the right place but hadn't changed the values by enough to make the servo move! I am building an RC yacht rescue boat that needs three channels for the "jet drive", two for the electric ducted fan (backup propulsion and artificial wind) and the sixth for the hand that grabs the shroud! Cheers Trevor
  20. When I plug the servo into AUX (Channel 6) on the RX it moves a little so I know it is active but I can't figure out how to control it from the TX! Nothing in the manual that I can see. Cheers Trevor
  21. Hi Darin. That's where it is at the moment so the long aerial can go down the aerial tube that's just under the deck.
  22. Hi FRA Not sure the drain hole is a good idea, at least not on mine as the pot is only just off the keel! I did contemplate not having a pot, velcroing the (sealed) battery to the keel (makes it adjustable ballast) and mounting the RX (waterproof anyway) on top. Cheers Trevor
  23. Hi Crashard Yes the DX6i does have a comprehensive throttle curve function but only if you are using the Helicopter programs! One of the first programming steps is to choose which Model Type, ACRO or HELI. That does beg the question as to whether Helicopter mode will work for sailing. If I get desperate for more subtle control I might try that! Cheers Trevor
  24. OK now I've got Exponential set up on the Rudder and I've also discovered the dual rate/expo switch so I have 30% set on position 0 and 60% on 1 so I can experiment. Sadly the sheets are on the Throttle channel which has no exponential facility!
  25. Thanks Ian Yes that makes sense. Thinking in aircraft logic Ailerons might want to move the same up as down as they work in opposite directions but Elevators might want to go down less than up. I can see why the default is 100%. If you needed to go more than 125% you perhaps need a different servo arm? I had thought of using the exponential feature on the rudder so might experiment with both later on. Cheers Trevor
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