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Trevor

MYA Member
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Everything posted by Trevor

  1. Having just restored a Cockatoo to full working order and delivered it to its new owner I am looking for a new project. Almost anything considered especially if it will make a good club boat when done. Cheers Trevor
  2. I have one horizontal and one vertical. I would assume you have the RX aerial horizontal with the Sailsetc thingy. One day I will do a signal strength check to see if any other way is better. My RM is never more than about 50 yards away. Trevor
  3. Trevor

    Which IOM

    I swopped my ISIS with a fellow sailors V10 for a few races and we finished more or less in the same places! I suspect the old adage about it being 10% boat and 90% sailor is correct. Certainly in the middle of the fleet.
  4. Trevor

    Sail Number Stencils

    I might manage a 2d print and cut them out! But thanks anyway.
  5. Does anyone know who sells sail number stencils as I can't seem to find any. Cheers Trevor
  6. Thanks Austin. The conversion is not the problem it just highlighted that I can't trust any of the numbers! I have IOM A rig 0-9 mph B rig 8-15 mph and C 12-25 mph. If that is about right that's all I need. Cheers Trevor
  7. I have a chart which suggests wind speed ranges for each rig. Unfortunately I have noticed that the conversion between km/hr, knots and mph is not accurate! Does anyone have such a chart. Cheers Trevor
  8. Simon was a work colleague some years ago who mentioned he sailed a Marblehead. He does not appear to be an MYA member so I wondered if he was still around? Anyone remember him? Cheers Trevor
  9. All fixed now and the measurement problem turned out to be a typo! Things learnt from the CF mast repair. 1. Cyano tack the tow to the mast, wind on required amount and cyano tack again. Wet the tow with resin and massage into the tow. 2. Wrapping with tape is fine on a cylindrical repair/reinforcement but masking tape or kitchen cling film sticks. 3. Wrapping a tow reinforced gooseneck with anything makes a mess! 4. Cutting CF tube to length in a lathe is OK but don't go all the way through! If you do the last few fibres don't cut and twist together into a very strong rope! 5. Reducing the outer diameter of a tube so it telescopes nicely is best done in a lathe with a file. Turning with even a very sharp tool is difficult. T
  10. Thanks Graham I’ll do that. The key to a lot of this is thinking ahead but the shifty wind on our tree lined pond means reacting to shifts and ending up somewhere other than suggested by any strategy. cheers T
  11. Thanks John that's that sorted! Web site bookmarked. Just another million things to get right. Cheers Trevor
  12. I am rebuilding my C rig masts due to carbon fibre damage and I am confused by some of the measurements and not even sure how to phrase this question! My old style certificate has figures that don't add up in as much as A upper to lower limit marks plus G deck to lower mark does not equal (what is now called) H deck to upper mark. It is 10 more! The new style certificate while it has more examples for G does add up in one case but what are the other options for? How do I use the certificate numbers to rebuild my mast? Cheers Trevor
  13. So far so good I have the C1 mast fixed. I have learnt not to use masking tape to retain resin as it's a fiddle to get it off! Currently struggling with mast measurements as I forgot to measure the limit marks! The measurements on the certificate don't seem to add up either but I'll ask that question in another post. T
  14. Thanks John I often get into this position as boats come past me on the windward leg and I get pushed onto starboard early. I think I shall go for the lay line early and go past it to allow for shifts and bad navigation! Cheers Trevor
  15. Bit of a newbie question as I confess to getting totally confused when looking at the rules! Two boats sailing towards the windward mark on starboard. The leeward boat will not make the mark and will need a short port tack to make the mark. What is the best strategy here? Should the leeward boat bear away, gybe onto port and go behind the windward boat until it can make the mark? Can he call for water at the mark, oblige the windward boat to tack, follow him onto port tack then back to starboard to make the mark? Any other strategies? Cheers Trevor
  16. Thanks I'll try the cling film.
  17. Hi I wouldn't call it a proper workshop but it's fine for models and small engineering jobs. Two masts are being rebuilt with new lower tubes and one that split at the first joint is being bandaged! The lathe is useful for removing tow applied in the pregnant snake style! I can take it back to the tube and reapply. I was contemplating using Dyneema to bind the goosenecks on but think it will look better with a couple of wraps of 1" wide woven tape. Final decision is whether to use epoxy glue or resin? I'm thinking glue is thicker and may be more controllable but will need to be "massaged" into the CF but resin will "wet" better. Cheers Trevor
  18. Thanks Richard. I have ordered unidirectional tubes (epoxy bound) so I can use them for both replacing and sleeving (internal) but think I might use them so quickly I need both sorts! I also got tow and tape for local reinforcement as you say around the backstay. I am wondering about a technique for applying tow by attaching the end to the tube with a spot of cyano, winding around a wetted tube, holding down with another spot of cyano before wetting out and taping. Some winding might be done on my lathe. When I say injecting epoxy I just mean opening up the splits and wiping resin in and letting it cure as with three or four splits it may be difficult to hold the tube round while winding. Cheers Trevor
  19. Does anybody have a preferred method to fix split masts. I know I should probably replace the tubes but these are very old C1, C2 and C3 rigs and the sails are not worth spending much on. I have one in particular that has come apart between the lower sections leaving half a dozen splits at the end of the bottom bit. Would injecting epoxy into the cracks and binding with CF Tow or Tape be OK? Other masts have splits at the gooseneck (particularly where screw have been used!). Same technique I assume? Cheers Trevor
  20. Whoops I didn't spot that the file names wouldn't be visible! I have edited to show Rev 1 left and Rev 2 right. Actually if you right mouse click to save as, you can see Erev1.mp3 and Erev2.mp3 at the beginning of the file name. Cheers Trevor
  21. Rob sent me the two sound files that identify which E model winch revision you have so I thought I would post them in case anyone else finds them useful. The left tone Is E Rev 1. The right tone is E Rev 2. Cheers Trevor Erev1.mp3 Erev2.mp3
  22. Hi Michael, Starkers cubed, Isis and Cockatoo IOMs. Still working through the Marblehead rigs which need a lot of repairs to split carbon and loose fittings. Maybe I'll hang them vertically when they're done so I can keep track. Cheers Trevor
  23. Thanks Martin. That sounds like the way to do it. Cheers Trevor
  24. I have a couple of sails where the numbers have been altered so many times the white coating on the sail material has come off leaving a clear patch. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Cheers Trevor
  25. My recently acquired marblehead has shroudless C1, C2 and C3 rigs, that have splits in the lower section of the masts. As I anticipate using these rarely for casual club racing, repair rather than replacement is preferred. Would pushing epoxy into the splits and/or sleeving be the way to go? If replacement is recommended can I use the £12.50 per metre tube rather than the £60 per metre stuff? Cheers Trevor
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