Trevor

Put a lid on it.

Put a three inch length of 1/2 inch wide strap under the fin bolt to make a loop.

My limited experience with Futaba would suggest that they don’t like damp and corrode easily. Expect component failure.

That will go over the heads of most folk!

Inside a coffee jar lid is sometimes a soft plastic disk you can use.

You make them from the Sailsetc item. The bottle parts stays attached to the hull and you screw in the top part when changing rigs.

I got a 100mm lid from Vintage Food Cans on Etsy but I can't find a 95mm one. I searched for food can lids and pot lids and found some 95mm but they were for coffee cups and the like. Vickers could have had some specially made?

Much prefer this layout on my smallish iPhone. Haven’t tried desktop yet.

Sorry but I still use my Isis all the time!

Using Portsmouth Yardstick involves timing everyone’s race and calculating results. Anyway PYNs are applied to whole classes not individual boats. You just gauge your personal performance by your progress up the fleet.

Or curved to fit the bottom of the hull.

👍

If lead was ok you could sand cast one at home using your pattern then file it down to weight. Lead is toxic so health and safety precautions would be needed. By lead sheet from a builders yard for melting down.

Try a couple of turns of string to fill in the gap. Maybe a thin plastic washer?

Just seen the ad for RMG Winches on this forum and wonder which one would be a suitable replacement for the 280D in my ISIS. Any suggestions?

The Sails Etc site has various diagrams of shroud attachment.

DF 95 servos are prone to this I believe. Try another one.

First check if the aerial/s are straight and as high as possible.

Just read an interesting article by Rob Guyatt (RMG man) who reckons anything over 49 oz-in (3.5 kg-cm) is wasted! Of particular note to users of early RMGs whose voltage regulators may have trouble with anything bigger and cause Rx dropouts.

Any recommendations as to the power of a Marblehead rudder servo. My Futaba S3014 just failed and is rated at 90 oz-in torque (at 6v). I have a spare Futaba S3003 rated 57 oz-in at 4.8v. Will this be enough? If not how about a Spektrum DS821 at 72? I could go ott and put the Futaba S9206 in at 132.

Ok you’ve overstood the lay line but the guy on port can’t tell if you are close hauled or freed off a bit. So he shouldn’t assume there will be room.

Gents I am recommissioning a neglected MX 16 and note that the mainsheet just goes through a hoop on the deck and then to the main sheet post. This isn't at all smooth as the sheet turns through nearly 180 degrees. I'm contemplating a small pulley attached to the hoop. What do you think?

Gents. I'm told this is an MX16 and not a BritPop which is to be sold by an ageing club member who can't remember how much he paid for it! It comes with Futaba radio and will need light recommissioning and batteries. We hope that one of our new club members takes it on. Any suggestions as to value gratefully received.

Thanks guys. This isn’t a strong wind thing and is predominantly the df95 fleet that has the issue. I suspect the light weight and lack of boat speed is the problem. I have suggested bearing away to maintain boat speed, overtacking and as you say not sheeting in until up to speed.

What do folk do to avoid being stuck head to wind and how do you recover? I was always told to bear away slightly to maintain boat speed before tacking especially if headed by a shift or if just pointing too high. And once stuck stay sheeted in and rudder hard over and wait until it reverses out.