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Everything posted by Crashard

  1. I have a brand new KingMax SW22HV which eventually I didn't use when building a new IOM. Open to offers!
  2. Many thanks for the suggestion. It has given me ideas. Ian
  3. I have recently built a woodie Ellipsis. As this was the first yacht I have built there were a number of leaks to track down. I think I have found the culprits and sealed them but one remains. I have removed the fin and inverted the yacht. Having sealed the hole for the retaining bolt I filled the fin box with water . After a few minutes the level dropped by 3/4. So it appears the box itself is leaking probably through the seams (It is a fibreglass moulding). Clearly I can't use any sort of bulky sealer as I won't be able to insert the fin. I was thinking of using some sort of super glue. I need one that is runny to penetrate the leak and waterproof. Suggestions please. I would also be interested to hear of any other method that might work. (There is no access from within the hull). Thanks Ian
  4. Many thanks for the info. The consistency across rigs is the killer here. Important to get this right (especially as Phil is our Club Measurer!) I'm going to get one of Peter Wiles bendy kickers which should solve my problem. Every day is a school day!
  5. Crashard

    Mast measurements

    I am making up a 'B' rig for my IOM which has bowl type deck. The Gooseneck I have has quite a low adjustable bar which could easily foul the rim of the mast bowl if it is set too low. I see that in Frank Russell's diagrams the distance from the deck to the lower band is 70mm. If I have to exceed this will this be legal I.e. is there any stipulation in the rules about this? Could rule gurus please advise?
  6. Hi Everyone. I want to refinish the deck on my 'woodie'. There is some horrible sticky residue from deck patches. What's the best solvent for removing this? Thanks Ian.
  7. Thanks Eric - can you let me know what size I should look for, please?
  8. I read this topic with interest. I have got all the components of a new rig but they are unused because I'm rather nervous about the 'Bantock' mast bending procedure. I would prefer too make my own bender. Could someone please point me in the direction of the pulley wheels that are suitable for this?
  9. Thanks for the info everybody. I'll go for the Ebay item and see how I get on.
  10. Hi Could anyone suggest a source of stick on numbers so I can neatly put GBR**** on my hull, please? At a sensible price I might add!
  11. Thanks for posting this. We've had some ideas posted here as to how racing might safely resume. The more the better. Bit like an online brainstorming session.
  12. Thanks Phil. There will be some ideas in this thread that will be useful that's for sure.
  13. I started this thread because nobody else had mentioned anything about plans for racing in the future, which frankly I found surprising. I tentatively lobbed in a few observations. As well as being a novice Club racer I am a long serving Committee member of an rc flying club. We have been circulating a document among the Committee members for several weeks now which is steadily being discussed and improved. This will be the blueprint for safe operation of our flying activities when the virus outbreak has been controlled. If a vaccine is not found we shall have to wait until other government control activities have reduced the risk of coming across an infected person to tolerable level, say comparable to having a fatal road accident. Then with well thought out precautions and new practices most people I think will be willing to participate. Whilst I appreciate that our hobby/sport isn’t very important compared to the crisis it may still be possible to spend a little time looking ahead. In the meantime thank you to the Members who have given their thoughts so far.
  14. Thinking ahead to when the CV crisis begins to unwind eventually it might be a good idea to start making plans as to how racing can be conducted. Clearly the old normality isn’t going to come back for quite some time, maybe even years. So a modified approach will be necessary. It seems unlikely that herds of sailors walking up and down the bank together is going to be allowed. Control will have to be from fixed positions at least 2 metres apart. Courses will have to be set so all marks are visible from any position. The use of heats will likely become more prevalent to reduce lakeside numbers. Launching and retrieval will have to sequenced to maintain separation. Maybe a Marshall with a hailer will be needed to ensure distancing rules are applied. It would interesting to hear what other members have in mind for the future of racing. Hopefully no one is thinking of ignoring the risks.
  15. Thanks for the information Barry & Eric. I'm buying from Housemartin right now so I'll ask Martin if he has some wire. Barry are you the designer of the PSYCHO? If so you could sell the lines to home builders like Frank Russell does.
  16. I am currently building a 'woodie' version of the Ellipsis and will soon get to the stage of fitting out the deck eyes for the sheeting etc.. I notice that deck eyes seem to be made from 1.6mm stainless wire. I can source piano wire as used by RC Plane builders etc but I would imagine it would rust very quickly. What have other builders used? Help will be appreciated, thanks.
  17. You might get a yacht in a Boxer when the hood is down. Whenever I go sailing it always seems to rain and that might be a problem. Incidentally, Porsches are for those that have deep pockets - I have recently sold my 981 Cayman at 24000 miles as I just got too nervous about the cost of repairs. New steering racks at £4000 anyone? Ian
  18. I've not got a DX6i but so I can't check but there should be a throttle curve function. This enables you to change the response at varying points as the stick moves relative to the servo. If you imagine the normal response of an ic engine to throttle input, a lot happens in the first small movements of the control. As the control is moved the response is diminishes. Think of driving your car. This is exactly the opposite response you need when pulling in the sails. You need a lot to happen quickly at first and then some fine control as they near the centre line. You can tinker with the curve on the 'throttle' stick to make its response more suitable for sailing. You are in fact mimicking an exponential curve. Hope this helps. Ian
  19. If the servo is set up so that 100% of the stick movement coincides with the total desired movement of the controlled surface you will be able to make a fine adjustment to the end point. The DX6i has the facility for exponential which can soften the immediate response of the servo - useful to prevent overshooting when making turns, Try 30% on your rudder. On the left stick you can use the throttle curve to make the stick less sensitive as the sails are pulled in. This makes it easier to control the last 10 degrees of movement of the sails to finely tune them when heading into the wind. I would add I know little about sailing as a newcomer but I've been flying rc planes since before 2.4ghz came out. I suggest you go to the local rc flying field with your gear - there will be someone there who can show you all the features of the DX6i. Cheers Ian
  20. Dave's website is a bit of a puzzle. The only way I could find to get in touch with him was by looking carefully at the pictures of his products. His phone number is on a label is incidentally pictured there! Great cradle - the best!
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