Ian Nethercleft

I've just been through the process of removing and silicon sealing the fin box on my new DF95 only to find it had been silicon sealed during manufacture! I go along with Colin's "If it ain't broke..." philosophy.

Thanks for the recommendation to try Ripmax and for the muff suggestion. If I get the T6K working I'll definitely get one. Ian

Hi John, I tried your suggestions and thanks again for them. Apparently the T6K has no facility for returning it to factory settings and even removing model data, which you should be able to do, proved impossible. I tried pairing the Rx and the Tx using a new model (never used before and therefore with no data) but this didn't work either. I checked the Mode of the Rx and this proved to be the default setting so should be OK - even though this would be unlikely to have had any effect anyway! Having done lots of reading of both the Rx and the Tx manuals, and being pretty certain the problem wasn't anything to do with the procedures I was following, I emailed Futaba UK. They phoned me within 30 mins!! Brilliant! They were really helpful and worked with me over the phone suggesting I depressed the mode button on the Rx while I powered it up during the pairing even though they agreed this wasn't in either manual. That didn't work either. They came to the conclusion that there was something wrong with the Tx and it might even be one of the circuit boards! I have their address and will send it for checking once I've had someone try to pair it at my club. Thanks again for reaching out. Regards, Ian

Thanks for going to the trouble of looking at both the video and the manual for me John. I'll try and reset the transmitter to factory settings tomorrow as you suggest and, at the same time (having just looked at the receiver manual) try and set the receiver to the default setting of mode 2 in case that has had its mode changed at some time. Great suggestions - thanks. I'll repost when I've tried them. Ian

I'm trying to set up the above transmitter and receiver having dispensed with my Futaba Attack SR transmitter FP-R12JE crystal based set up.and the Futaba I'm finding the manuals and the Futaba YouTube video 'opaque' to say the least as most of the abbreviations, menu listings and technical vocabulary are pretty lost on me as this is the first time I've swum in these waters. Having read and followed section 35 on 'Link Procedure' I've got this far: In the model select menu I go to Link which says "(NO Link)" I press the jog button and transmitter beeps I power up the receiver while it's beeping and it flashes red four times. It then returns to continuous red. No sign of green! Any ideas of how to get the magic green LED? Any suggestions gratefully received. Please try and avoid any terms or abbreviations I'm not likely to understand. Thanks a lot. Ian

Thanks for your reply Larry. I'm still at the stage of working out how to make the boat move but when I've mastered that I'll bear in mind what you've drawn my attention to. Thank you.

Hi Michael, Thank you for your prompt and helpful reply and for your welcome. I'll do as you suggest.

I'm very new to IOM sailing and have recently been given a boat number by Nick Cowern for the yacht I've started to sail. Is it important to get the boat fully certificated or should I be content simply to sail using the number I have been given. I'm confident the boat complies with the class measurements and build / material requirements as the 'Rhythm' was built from Graham Bantock's plans and using 'Sails etc.' materials and components. If I need to get it measured and the build requirements certified who does this?