Peter Baldwin

K7 Yachts can supply Red Ant see the advert on the suppliers page

Or they will generously warn you that they are "Tacking", as if that absolves them of the fact that they are tacking in your water or into you!

Yes, and it uses one of the article photo's on the home page plus a recent photo from the Birkenhead Xmas Open. see https://www.yachtsandyachting.com/news/294515/On-the-right-wavelength

95? Are sails standard Joysway or aftermarket? A picture of backstay crane and also where iyt is snagging would be useful.

You could always try a check with the boat on a cradle and see how far you can walk away from it before you lose the signal or get a warning. It's not quite the same as on the water but will give you an idea and you could always do a comparison with your DF65 setup to see how different they might be. You wouldn't really want to sail it more than 100m away as it's usually difficult to see what is happening with your boat and other boats around it after 70m especially boats the size of the DF65 and RG65.

If you mount the two aerials at right angles around the central or forward hatch with a patch covering you should be fine. I have used that on two different RG65's with no problems in range to at least 100m. Where will you be sailing the RG65?

Hi Tim Depending upon where you might settle, there are a number of options in the Northern District and it may be worth having a look at the MYA list of clubs with a Filter to show just those in the Northern District see ND Clubs A good number can offer racing in a variety of classes, although some clubs currently only sail a single class on one day of the week. We may see you at some point in the future Peter Baldwin Northern District Councillor

Up to you Stephen, but I am still using the same hull three years later with no problems. All depends on whether you are time poor or not. If it is just one screw eye to sort, then its 10 minutes to do the check (max) and another 5 to 10 to apply the small amount of epoxy ( I used Araldite)

Check the hull and screw eyes for leaks. Fit the hatch cover sealed as you would normally. Then either use a solution of washing up liquid and spray the whole hull. Alternatively, submerge the hull in water sufficient to cover the whole hull, say in a bath or failing that you might need to do this at the club on a windless day. Blow in the bung hole and check where bubbles occur in the spray solution or in the water. This should identify where the problem is. You will likely get some leakage from the sheet line as it exits the gasket but not around the rubber gasket itself. This is most likely problem is in the area of a screw eyes. I had a problem with the C/D jib tie down eye leaking after several years of use which was resolved by renewing the epoxy that I had added to all screw eye holes after removing and re-inserting the eye. After a while, the epoxy can break away from the hull and need renewing. Hope this helps.

If you would prefer an English voice, there are always the files on the MYA KB https://www.mya-uk.org.uk/kb/start-countdown-recordings/, which have two different 2 minute countdowns. One of these has a "musical" introduction leading into the 2 minutes. Both could potentially be amended and reduced down to a 1 minute countdown if required, using an audio editing App such as Audacity.

They are listed in the Clubs section with contact details.

And me. 36 Entries in a day and a half (someone shows as entering twice so it says 37)!

How about looking at the 10R section of the Classes Tab on the mYA website?? https://www.mya-uk.org.uk/kb/ten-rater-class/

David I take it that you are referring to a DF65 or 95 winch (as this isn't mentioned and is in the generic RC Equipmemt and Electrics area). If so, in my experience then the eleastic should not turn the winch drum even when set to a close hauled position when power is turned off. Either the tension is too tight or the elastic is too strong or even both of these. When sheeted out there should only be a slight tension left in the elastic which stops the winch line jumping off the drum and no more. If the elastic is too strong or too tight then you will increase battery drain (as the winch is always working harder especially whilst close hauled) for no end benefit. Peter

Simon In my experience, out of the box, the DF95 does not leak. However, as Mike has suggested above, you can remove deck eyes and then refit using sealant or epoxy in the hole first. I sailed mine for more than 3 years before getting water through the second jib tie down eye when put under heavy load with C and D rig conditions (15+ knots). Eyes can be removed easily and then refitted. Some boats do leak in the seal between the keel box and hull, although this doesn't get in the hull, just in the sealed central compartment. Placing the clear plastic keelbox patch on the bottom should resolve most of these problems. Otherwise there are some small screws holding the two halves of the keelbox together accessed through recesses on the top to take it apart. I would however suggest you try the boat in top end A rig conditions and see if it leaks before doing too much remdial work first. Just ensure that you are carfeul in sealing down the hatch cover with no wrinkles in tape or patch material as this will soon be tested when you sail in windy weather. A small amount of water can still get inside through the winch line, but I would normally only expect a few drops at the most after each race.

We can have a look at it at Blithfield on Saturday. Looks like light winds at the moment, but that could all change by saturday morning!

The amount of tension for all three lines (forestay, cunningham and topping lift) all depends on wind strength. The stronger the wind, then tighter the forestay will normally need to be. However, if the wind strength has significant variations then you can probably only set it for the strongest gust, but you may still have some issues in the lighter patches. Next os the cunningham, which should be the scond attachment from the front of the ring. Normally I would set this to have slightly less tension than the forestay. Finally set the topping lift to give the right leech twist to match that of the main. Do make sure that the mast crane is lined up with the axis of the boat and that the ring attachment dyneema is not set off to one side of the front attachment point or has excessive Cyano causing it to be too stiff. Otherwise you are on the right tack with having a decent amount of tension in the backstay applied first before tightening the jib adjusting bowsies. Hope this helps.

The spec on the TX is 90mA and so you should get 15 hours and easily 12 from a 2000mAh battery. 2000mAh/90mA is 22, but 12 hours is very conservative and the TX current does not vary with load or distance from the boat. Forthe RX, I am guessing that it is 5V when you have just charged it and likely that the actual voltage for most of the day will be between 4.4 and 4.8V. You will get 20% more speed with a 5 cell pack. Everyone I know of uses either a 5 cell pack or a 6.6V LiFe rechargeable, but there may be others out there using a 4 cell NiMh unit.

From the Radiolink website the spec on the TX battery is: Industry-standard JST connector makes AT9S Pro is adapt for various battery layouts, 8pcs AA battery, a 2S-4S LiPo or 18650 Lithium battery. When a TBS Crossfire is connected, the maximum 3S LiPo battery is supported. The new power supply circuit provides longer battery life, 12 hours of fun with a 1800mAh 3S LiPo or 18650 Lithium battery. The voltage range is 7.4-18V, so 8xAA Alkaline (12V) or rechargeable (9.6V) will suffice. Your title had 4.8V (4 cell NiMh) 950mAh for the RX. Is that the battery you are using or is it a 6V (5cell NiMh) as 4 cell is too in voltage low in my opinion?

Hi Simon I typically can sail for a whole day with one RX battery pack (5 cell AAA) on a DF65 if we are running two or more HMS heats (typically the case with more than 24 boats entered). I switch off the TX and RX between races to save power if running two heats. To be on the safe side, change the battery pack at lunchtime (or approximately halfway through racing). Thus two packs should be sufficient if they are relatively new and not suffering from any form of corosion which can affect the lead resistance and capacity. For the TX I run a Flysky FSi6 and can run for two days of racing on a set of rechargeable AA's. One day's racing shouldn't be a problem, but it is always good to have a spare TX battery anyway. Afraid I do not have any experience of the Radio link series, but would guess that power consumption is similar. This applies to most things such as rudder servos, winches RX etc as they can be fine for months and even years and then unfortunately fail when you are at an open meeting, just when you don't want it. I have known some sailors replace critical items before open events just to minimise the chances of failure. See you at Blithfield. Peter

If there is an aluminium tube liner as used on some Lintel design boats, that can corrode in time especially if used on salt lakes and not washed thorougly after sailing. The only solution was slow application (it may take days and 5-10 applications to penetrate to base of tube) of WD40 and then gripping post with molegrips or similar to free it by rotating. Heat applied to outer tube may help, but I didn't try. The bottom of the ptfe post usually has an adjustable fitting with a O Ring or similar as a friction lock, when and if you can remove it. The aluminium tube will need cleaning and lubricating before reassembly once the post is removed.

You can try asking the IOM Registrar who can be contacted via the Registrars section of the Members Area accessed though the MYA Internal tab on the website having logged in.

If there is no ring at the base of the mast (or the top), then obtain some and fit them to ensure that the carbon does not split again if you do repair it. To give maximum strength you may be best to use epoxy to glue the stub into the mast after fitting the reinforcing ring. To be class legal on both the DF65 and 95, the carbon tube used must be from the manufacturer rather than from a carbon tube supplier and should also have the rings fitted, although by not fitting them the tube will have little strength at the ends.

David You might wish to read the DF95 Rules here In terms of your question, look specifically at rule A.10 which states what you are and are not allowed to do when racing at an event.

Absolutely correct Larry - it should be perpendicular and I should have spotted that error in the original statement attributed to E2.6 (b) from Andrew. As John Ball points out the original definition is not from the current RRS and I should have looked up the current wording first before writing my response. Need to check the reply first otherwise everyone is going to get very confused.