womble66

6T6 is a 6M .... https://www.allradiosailboats.com/design/6t6

In Australia I think the cooks that sail V boats use container lids from NZ Mussels which are readily available in our supermarket .... maybe the same lids 😀

Also inspect the hull around the fin box for cracks emanating from the black plastic fin box out. These can be tiny and not obvious at first but are a definite source for leaks if present and do open up more when the hull is under stress in strong winds or choppy conditions. A temporary fix is to apply a hull patch sticker as detailed in Rule C9 of the current DF95 Class Rules.

Hi John, I know it's been years but did you ever work out the mast rake for a Pikanto in millimetres from fixed points rather than degrees as mentioned above My friend is about to start the refresh process on a Pikanto down here in Oz and is looking for any rigging or tuning guides. Cheers 🍻

In Australia Red Ant Yachts has been selling custom made start boxes for RC yachts recently which have been adopted by many of our clubs across the country and recently used at our National Titles across many classes. See the article in the News section of this link for information. https://redantradioyachts.com/news/

One of my pet hate is when the L boat calls correctly but clearly has room to tack and avoid the W boat. Yes, there is the response call of "you tack" and then it's my understanding the obligation is then on the W boat to either clear the L boat or simply tack. In my instances I see the call used constantly as a form of bluff (gamesmanship) when there is clearly room for the L boat to tack and avoid the W boat. They seem to do it ensure the L boat, who may be slightly ahead on STARBOARD, maintains dominance over W boat by making them tack early onto PORT so they maintain the W position and take advantage of localised lifts off the shoreline. I've started to use the "you tack" call more and more, especially when the calling boat is multiple boat lengths to L when calling. Just waiting for the day when the L boat tacks and clearly doesn't avoid the contact ...... but that's another RRS.

Just an observation on RedAnt Stinger winches from my recent experience ..... there are several versions of the winch with a variety of wiring options employed depending on its version. The versions I've seen with include: * single cable with thin wires that get power through the receivers (as described above); * two cables both with thin cables, one for and to power the receiver and the other for a direct power connection to a battery; and * two cables, one with thin cables for and to power the receiver and the other with larger gauge wires for a direct power connection to a battery. There are also different versions of the winch from the original single speed to a newer version that seems slightly faster (untested) and the brand new version that is dual speed depending on stick input from the TX. There maybe more versions so if you really interested I suggest you ask Yoda at RedAnt for the specifics of any S/N you may have or looking to buy. My new RedAnt winch, which replaced a RMG 290J1 due to some faulure issues, is a single speed but came with the two cables, a thick gauge power lead to which I fitted a XT60 connector for the battery and a thinner cable pre-fitted with a JR plug for the receiver. I'm only a novice but happy with my change to the Stinger 😀

FYSA, when I got mine one of the advantages of the FS-ST8 was it came with a 2S LiPo 1500mAh battery and fitted without modification using t g e JST plig so similar to my boat so recharging was easy and well understood. Unfortunately the reception issue negated this advantage and its now sitting and waiting for the FW update 😞

If you click on the FB link you will see an updated reply that acknowledges the issue for which FlySky apparently may be doing a software upgrade early next year to address the issue.

I know Phil Burgess (Chairperson of International DF Association) recently posted comments on FB specifically about the ST-8 and poor reception and aftrr meeting the people from FlySky in China was going to be testing a new receiver from FlySky to see if issues could be mitigated. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/hrpsyM5jYszR2uv7/ Might need to follow-up on this as I also have a ST-8 but went back to a FS-i6 as it was impacting my sailing outcomes.

But it's not so be careful

Chuck from DSNA has a YT video on this exact process.

I think your reading Chuck's DF65 guide for the A+ incorrectly as the Main Boom Assembly picture on page 2 clearly has the front sheet guide set at 80mm from the lower gooseneck bolt exactly the same as all other rigs, including the A rig as you have mentioned. The 100mm in Chuck's DF65 guide for the A+ is referring to the rear sheet guide which should be glued using CA at 100mm from the end of the boom as per step 10 which is measured from the clew end of the boom, not the end closest to the mast or gooseneck.

AVE by Design after 7 heats: TOP 6: VENTI 54.0 BRITPOP 60.0 K2 68.5 V11 116.5 OTHER 177.3 TOP 3: VENTI 23.0 BRITPOP 38.7 V11 47.0 K2 48.7 OTHER 144 What does this all mean? ....... nothing

We exported one of our top designers/builders to the UK in the name of love (tic) and another that I know told me he stopped building as there is no money in building IOMs. That's why I asked who is building them in Australia as apart from the ones from Mirage or Plan B or the AKA which are locally designed and produced there aren't that many options. Happy to hear who @Stephen Bmay be considering I'm lucky enough to have an older but still highly competitive 2014 Craig Smith built IOM that BG just sent me new sails for but also have a Venti on order from Pepe in Spain as a future upgrade after considering a few locals and not being able to order a V11, get a Britpop quickly due to it's popularity and not wanting to join the masses with a K2.