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Balsa planked yacht hull, next step?

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Hi,

I have just finished balsa planking my nimbus 3 and I am now at the stage of prepping to glass fibre the hull, I've read so many ways of doing it, but does anyone have a full proof method! Could someone help and some simple instructions on how togo about it,

Does the balsa need sealing and what with, type of fibre glass cloth to use, and should I go with fibre glass resin or epoxy, and what paint can I use after, ie, can you use can paint from halfords!

Any help would be most grateful, I look forward to your suggestions

Cheer

Mark

There are very many ways of doing this you could have a look at the video on the Abington Park website where the two Peters are glass skinning a Wee Nip.

There is a water based resin you can use with something like a finishing cloth it will be strong enough and it is very easy to apply and clean up afterwards it is called Eze Cote and certainly available on line. If you use this after sanding hull to the finish you want then 2 coats applied and allowed to dry sanded with wet and dry between each one, then the cloth is applied to the 3rd cote and stretched out to remove the wrinkles and eliminate all the air bubbles then a light sanding and a further finishing coat.

If you have done a good job on the hull plain varnish would look good, it is worth noting that a clear coat shows imperfections in finish a lot less than a gloss painted finish. No doubt you will get lots of replies from much more skilled modellers than myself but this worked for me with my meagre abilities

Hi Mark

I've made a couple of composite balsa-glass IOM's and an RG 65. I have a blog of my modelling antics here:

http://soaring-sailing.blogspot.co.uk/

You will have to go back a good few pages though. Over the years I have learnt from a few mistakes and some new techniques. I'm just about to go out now but tomorrow I will post a synopsis

Mk

This is the way I would currently go about finishing a balsa planked hull. It might not be to everyones taste or technique but it works for me. So here goes. Firstly I'd plan to to lay up the FG and apply the finishing coats of resin all in one day. So I'd start early, in a pretty warm environment. I would apply a layer of 180-200gram/m2 of fibre glass cloth to the bare balsa using 3M spray mount to tack it to the hull. Once wetted out ( I use West System Resin) using a credit card and minimum amount of back and forth stroking I'd apply a second lamination of 80-130gram/m2 FG again using the minimum amount of resin, force and stroking. Once finished I'd leave for an hour or two or until the resin is just apparently touch dry. I'd then mix up and add another coat of resin. When mixing it's best done very carefully to try and avoid as many air bubbles as possible. This is also why you don't want to be brushing back and forth too much as this will also introduce bubbles which affects the finish. Again, once after this layer has cured slightly and is in a green state I'd apply another coat and possibly one more final coat.

Laminating the hull in a single day saves you a lot of sanding, cleaning and blocked up sand paper. Although, West System resin is relatively easy to use it's major draw back is the armine blush or wax which is produced whilst it cures. If this wax isn't completely cleaned off then any subsequent coat of resin or paint will be completely ruined. Hence, I have found the one day approach the easiest method. After a couple of days I'll apply two coats of resin to the inside of the hull and following that give the outside a really good clean with a tiny amount of Fairy liquid and lots of fresh water. A light sand with 120 grit sand paper and another good wash. Perhaps a small amount of P38 car body filler if required to any low areas and then you should have a hull ready for painting.

I can only suggest Epifanes 2K paint. It was recommended to me by Robot Yachts and it can give a brilliant finish which is just what you want after spending many, many hours of thinking and building time. I have built myself a long box out of mdf, covered in 2"th'k insulation with an inspection lamp clipped in one end forms a very good little oven in which to put the hull post painting as it helps cure the paint and keeps the dust off.

I hope this helps

mk

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Author

Hi

Many thanks for all your information certainly helped, will take all on board!

Cheers

Mark

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