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Featured Replies

Has anybody found a suitable spay paint to respray my fin and bulb, i have repaired some minor damage and would like to respray it either grey (original colour) or white to see the weed better.

I use high build epoxy primer and flat it down. Spray high build works ok too.  Never use any form of etch primer though. The acid content degrades epoxy and polyester. 

Best finish is 1000/1200 wet and dry.  I too have a preference for white fins.

The best I have found is Ambersil acrylic aerosol spray paint, available in various colours. Easy, safe application, touch dries quickly, tough and repairs quickly.  Not expensive either!  Axefixer 

Dave Creed uses Epithanes Polyurethane but this is a brush applied paint.  If you want to spray, then 2K rattle cans (i.e. the ones with an internal capsule) give a 'harder' finish than 1K cans, but work out expensive as they don't keep once you have activated them.  Go easy with the high-build as it can craze in the heat if applied too thick.  Best to apply it and then sand nearly all of it off again so that it just fills the low spots rather than use it as a complete coat.

Spot on John; I apply then wet and dry so the carbon high spots are just visible. May not look pretty but super smooth and hardly any extra weight. White does not get hot in the sun - of course.

Richard

Can you buy that paint as it says professional use only….

is there other paint that people use, that we can buy in “high street” stores?

  • 2 months later...

Spray high build primers sold in lots of high street stores. 

as mentioned previously; flat off (1200) so that carbon high spots just visible. That way you know it is smooth and not thick. 

All top coats require a good primer underneath. If you are painting untreated carbon fins (new or old). Best to brush a primer on, this will fill any of the little pin hole voids in the carbon. If you try spraying, the primer will not go into the pin hole voids but instead create little circular craters around the pin holes, you could end up with more craters than flat surfaces. It doesn't matter how much you keep spraying the craters just get bigger and don't fill. 

Best to paint the primer on with a brush, this forces the paint into the pin holes.
Rub down with 600 wet and dry, plenty of water. Ensure there is an even coating of primer after flattening, if you've gone through to the carbon, place more primer on. No need to use anything finer than 600 grit, your not trying to get a gloss finish like you do with the top coat, you need something for the paint to grip to.
Allow to dry, then spray if this is your chosen method.

For one-off fins, I'd use standard aerosol cans from Halfords, cheap and easily available, stick to the solid colour, not metallics.
On a dry day, build up in 4 thin coats. Allow 15 minutes between coats.
Allow to dry for 24 hours. Rub out any imperfections, (but there shouldn't be any if your primer was good and even), with 1200 grit and a lot of water, very gently.
If you haven't gone through the paint to the primer, use 2000 wet and dry again with plenty of water. If you have gone through spray another 2 coats. Wait 24 hours.

Buff up with a good compound cream using a clean cloth. Halfords do a Farela cream that gets finer the more you rub.

I purposely stuck to items that anyone can purchase from the highstreet, that will give you an excellent result.

Remember it's all in the preparation and priming.

Hope this helps.

 

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