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Michael Thomas

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Everything posted by Michael Thomas

  1. Hi Everyone, This has worked for me previously when I bought a boat and perhaps it is something we as an organisation can build upon in the future. I have sold a DF65 to a guy who is a member of Birkenhead SC. I have found that getting a courier at a reasonable price is now quite difficult and expensive, especially if your parcel is over 1 metre in length. So if anyone from a south coast club is attending a national meeting where someone is also competing from Birkenhead perhaps I could meet you somewhere near Winchester and transport it for me. The boat is in a box? Thanks in anticipation. Michael Tel 07599 838955
  2. Hello everyone, I'm sure someone can help me here. I have recently obtained an Ericca IOM for use in very light winds as I was previously assured they are a very good light wind boat. However I've not been entirely happy with the performance which is probably due to my rig set up especially as this boat is much wider in the beam that other IOM's I own. Is there an Ericca owner past or present able to help with this please? Many thanks Michael
  3. DF 65 for sale with A & A+ rigs with Joysway sails and supplied stand. The boat has had light use and comes with Joysway radio gear. It is registered with the number 1614. Sail bag for both rigs included. Asking £150 which is a bargain as a new one will cost you £318.00 There is a very small crack to the front of the keel box which on an otherwise unmarked hull, is very difficult to see and I have reinforced this area with epoxy resin, however this does not affect the use of the boat. A new hull is £69 so this still represents a massive saving of over £100.00 on a new boat. I understand the only difference between this and the V7 is that the V7 has an upgraded winch and stand but as you would never use the supplied stand at an event this is not worth considering. Collection is preferred from Southampton area and I have the original box. Please phone or text 07599838955 if interested. I have not included a photo as they are all the same, although mine has a flash of orange vinyl stripe to I/D it in a fleet.
  4. Thanks to everyone who replied.. Mike Evans from that fantastic club at Gosport is going to do this for me. I hope the weather is kind to you up there. Michael.
  5. I am trying to buy an IOM which can be delivered to the forthcoming IOM Nationals being held in Scotland. Is there anyone attending who could possibly pick this boat up for me and bring it south? I live in Southampton, so someone from a club reasonably local to me would be ideal and I would collect from you at your convenience and pay for any additional cost you have incurred. If you could help could you phone or text me on 07599 838955. Many thanks Michael.
  6. Thank you John for your prompt reply. So in the case of a disabled boat where the RC or his nominee may assist (E4.2(c)) can the boat re-join the race or must she now retire? Michael.
  7. We have a small fleet of Marblehead yachts at the club to which I belong. All have differing fin lengths within the class rules. There is an advantage in some races in hugging close to the shore but it can become shallow and often boats run aground. If the skipper is unable to re-float the boat himself by use of the radio system by sheeting in the sails in order to heel the boat over and float off does the boat become “Disabled” in accordance with the rule. E1.1? Rule E4.2 relates to outside help and is in part 4 of the RRS therefore penalty turns are not applicable. As there appears to be nothing within Part 4 which permits outside help to re-float the boat is the skipper of the grounded boat permitted to either wade into the lake to re-float her or use a long pole to push her off and re-join the race or should she now retire as it was not controlled by the radio? Obviously if another competitor in the race was to do that it would clearly be outside help and a disqualification would follow. Please advise. Thanks Michael.
  8. Welcome to Marblehead sailing what do you have. I have an old Stark by David Creed, 1997 boat but still very competitive, an Astrix by John Taylor/Damian Ackroyd for strong winds and an old Paradox which I'm refurbishing. I store my IOM sails vertically in their sail bags but my Marblehead "A" rigs are too tall so they are stored horizontally. Not had a problem although they would be better off in fully supported rig boxes when I get round to making them.
  9. Hi Trevor. I had similar issues with some old sails when I removed the old self adhesive numbers which left a sticky reside.. I cleaned off the residue adhesive with acetone and took off the layer of satin coating. I then decide to clean the whole panel affected with acetone which took off all the satin coat leaving a clear panel. I masked off a seam joins with masking tape above and below where the numbers were to obtain a professional finish. I then applied my personal sail number using a permanent marker and templets from BG Sails & Design. Easy to clean off and remove/change with acetone. The integrity of the sail has not been affected and sometimes it is an advantage to be able to see through the sail. New Mylar sail material can be cleaned with acetone and the satin finish does not come off. Best wishes Michael.
  10. Thanks to Richard I looked up the mast blocks on the sails2etc web site. This led me to a very interesting article on how to calculate mast rake. It's simple when you know how. Now set to 2 deg. aft. The owner will now probably out sail everyone so I best check mine. Thanks again Richard for pointing me in the right direction. Michael.
  11. Thanks Richard. Unfortunately it's not my boat, it belongs to a new club member and I'm trying to set it up on his behalf. He is a new MYA member. This boat is build no 10 and I don't know if they changed through their production run. There is an oval shaped mast block which fits into the oval shaped mast tube, I'm presuming this is for an A rig. Is there not a measurement for the forestay to mast distance triangle to keep the tension on the forestay to avoid sag and to get the correct mast shape to match the luff of the main sail through the backstay tension? There is no mast ram. Or am I doing it totally wrong. Cheers. Michael.
  12. Hi, does anyone have a measurement to set up the mast rake on a Red Wine. Looking for a measurement from the rear of the bow bumper to a datum height measurement on the mast. Many thanks. Michael
  13. I have recently acquired a Paradox Marblehead to complement my Stark. It needs a fair bit of refurbishment and some repairs however I cannot find a hull identification number on the boat. It may be it was never measured or having been repainted the original number may have been erased. Previous owner has no information to assist me. It is an early boat, build No 2. I have contact both the class registrar Roy Stevens and Brad Gibson the builder without success. The sails display No 29 and there is an international K which suggests it was competition sailed some time ago. The boat would date back to the early '90's When I removed the paint I found the name " Avantgarde II" underneath. If you recognise this boat or know of a previous owner or a registered number can you let me know please. Thanks Michael.
  14. Hi Bill. I use Sailwave. I use two programs one for the daily racing event and one for the series. It is really quick to update results which I e-mail out or you can put the results on the Sailwave web site where everyone can view them. It has numerous options based around Appendix A of the RRS so you can customise it as you wish regarding discards, ties, etc. If you have any trouble setting it up the contact guy is really helpful. Good luck, Michael
  15. Hi Darren. Good to hear from you. Yes SI's is something we are working on at the moment. I'm still relatively new to RS having come from yacht racing where SI's and NOR were normal practice. Should solve a lot of problems and to include the terminology used in Radio sailing. In response to earlier quotes about discards. I'm not a great lover of too many discards in a series especially at club level. It does not promote good support for the club by regular attendance and tends to benefit the best skippers who can win a series without the commitment of taking part in most of the races. In fact Appendix A default is only one worst score to be discounted. I would like to end this discussion here as I have the information I need. Thanks to you all. Michael
  16. Thanks for you input guys. I have adopted Lester's explanation for the event that took place last Friday and adjusted the scores accordingly. There is a lot of discussion online, both at home and abroad regarding the fairness of the "best in the last race" application of scoring ties and generally it is regarded as unfair except at the highest level of competition. As the Club IOM Class Captain and IOM scorer I am drawing up a Notice of Race that amends slightly the RRS Appendix A low score system to suit our events and skill level of our members more fairly by changing the "best in the last race application" in the event that the countback rule does not resolve the issue to "take account of all scores including excluded scores" If scores are still tied then to award equal points to each. Seems fair in a small club with vastly differing skill levels. Regards Michael.
  17. I am the Club scorer for the IOM races we run under the RRS. I use the Sailwave Race Management System to calculate race results using the Appendix A low points scoring system. There are no Sailing Instructions or Notice of Race currently in place that changes the rules A bit of an anomaly was thrown up after last Friday's racing, in fact this is the second time this year the same question has arisen. The query is about tied scores after a discard has been applied when all scores are equal e.g. each of two competitors has scored 1 x 1st. 1 X 2nd. 1 x 3rd. 1 x 4th and 1 x 5th in a race consisting of 6 heats. One competitor had a high score of 6th discarded and the other a high score of 8th discarded. This gives equal points of 15 after the one discard. One of the two competitors whose discarded score of 6th was calculated by Sailwave to be placed second overall. The other was placed 3rd. I'm not sure how this calculation came about as it is obviously incorrect but I didn't notice it at the time. The third place competitor complained, quoting RRS A8.2 stating his final heat score was better than the other competitor and he should be awarded 2nd place. On looking at the rules it appeared to me that A8.2 is how to calculate tied scores at the end of a Series not the end of a Race and perhaps A7 giving each 2.5 points and joint second place is the correct answer. Not knowing which to apply I have sought some advice but been given conflicting answers. One indicated that RRS A7 should be applied to the RACE result which would give both competitors 2nd place with 2.5 points each. The other indicated that RRS Rule 8.2 should be applied as in his opinion a number of races in a day is a series irrespective that the scores will be added to a longer series, therefore the competitor with the best score in the last heat should be awarded the 2nd place. In the interest of fairness I wish to apply the correct scores as it may affect the overall series results. I think the answer may lay in the definitions of Race and Series but I'm not sure which to apply. Many thanks Michael.
  18. Thanks Brad & John. Got it now. Michael
  19. Please bear with me while I continue this thread. I have been given some Marblehead sails which I wish to check measure the sq. area before I visit a measurer for certification. I have now digested the information on the Marblehead sail measurement form and am happy that I can enter the relevant information to check the sails are compliant. However there is no information on how to find the 1/4 measurement points. I did briefly speak with a measurer and the below is I think what he told me but I need confirmation. The sails are standard luff with luff rings. Measure the Luff perpendicular by taking a measurement from the luff at 90 deg. to intersect the point of the clew. To find the 1/4 points. Take a datum line from the hoist side of the head of the sail to the clew. Divide this measurement into 4 equal parts and mark this point on the datum line. To identify the measurement point, take a line at 90 deg. from the luff to intersect the datum points to the leech. This will give the 1/4 1/2 3/4 measurements. Is this correct? Thanks Michael.
  20. Thanks for your advice guys. Raced today wit the recommended elastic to keep the topping lift taught and it worked a treat. Only problem was I found when I arrived home that the vertical axis pin on my Gooseneck had come out. No wonder the boat wasn't sailing fast.
  21. Thanks John, John & Eric. I don't think the mast prebend is a problem, in fact there is quite a lot of backstay tension to get the mast straight or should I say to match the luff in the main sail. This in turn actually pushes the centre of the mast forward and in doing so brings the spreaders closer to the topping lift I shall have a look at John Bennett's boat on Friday and try some elastic. I have some 1.5 mm elastic which may do. Thanks for all your advice. Michael.
  22. I have a problem with the jib boom topping lift getting caught on the spreaders. I have fitted a light keeper line but it still occasionally catches. Is there a solution, I think I may have heard about an elastic line as the jib boom topping lift but have no idea how this would work. Any solution greatly appreciated? Thank you, Michael
  23. Thanks Brad & Richard. I'm actually using one of Dave Potters goosenecks which have an adjustable axis. I'll adjust it a little to change the axis. Busy at the moment but will try again later today or tomorrow. Thanks again.
  24. Thanks Brad. I'll have another go tomorrow, mast pre-bend starts at about 600 mm from the top, spreaders are square and in tension so everything is about as you suggest apart from the ram which I set up after setting the downwind sheet positions and vang to give an even twist to the leech of the main in the close hauled setting. I'll reset this tomorrow with more ram and send a photo if I still can't get it to work. Thanks for your advice. I'm sure many will read it with interest. Michael
  25. Having started this thread I have now finished building the rig and fitted it to the boat today. I used Frank Russel's pre-bend suggestion of 12 mm for the A rig and Brad's mast building guide measurements. However when I rigged the boat and set everything up I noticed that looking down the rig from the top, the pre-bend has not straightened out or formed a nice curve to match the luff of the main sail in the top section. I have a put on a lot of backstay tension but can't get the mast to form a nice even curve. Now I bought two masts at the outset and although I used the recommended pre-bend I'm using a PG mast which I understand is considerably stiffer than most available. Although the sails appear to set nicely I'm tempted to build a new mast without pre-bend just to see how it sets. Should I do this or just wait and see how the boat sails?
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