Michael Thomas

Thanks Richard for your comments especially on carbon rigs. I also sail a Marblehead with both carbon swing rigs and an A2 conventional carbon rig with shrouds and spreader. It would appear to me a simple rule change to allow carbon rigs to be used on the IOM either unstayed or with shrouds. I wonder what the purists would make of a suggestion to a rule change to permit? Seems an obvious update in line with current thinking. I recall some time ago that a rule change permitted pigmented grp hulls.

So, going back to the pre-bend issue, the designer of my boat an MX14 by Frank Russell only recommends a 10-14mm pre-bend on the A rig. As I mentioned earlier I bought two new P G masts one of which I tried the Bantock method of bending and only succeeded in a kink. As only a relatively small amount of pre-band is recommended how detrimental I wonder it would be not to put any pre-band in the mast at all? Maybe I'll try it. Views and comments please. Michael

That's a very nice pre-bend in your mast. I've just bought two new masts and tried the Batock method and only succeeded in a kink. Not worried about that as I can cut it down for the B rig but how did you do yours?

Hi all. I'm considering upgrading my 1996 Stark Marblehead to something a bit newer with more freeboard and buoyancy at the bow. I've been sailing my current boat for just over a year now on a lake, that like many inland waters has trees on two sides W & N which cause generally light and fickle winds with flat water most of the time in A rig conditions. So I know the Starkers Cubed is a tried and trusted design but I'm also considering an Astrix by David Taylor or has anyone experience of the Emme, designed by Ceccarelli and built by MX components? Would like to hear of any thoughts on that one. I have a MX 14 IOM which although the build quality is not quite up to that of Robot Yachts is nevertheless very acceptable. I would have considered a Grunge but can't afford the 4K plus as I understand I can't just buy a boat but would have to buy at least 3 rigs to go with it! Thanks.

Thanks Mike. Stuck in tier 4 lockdown at the moment so can't go anywhere for a while. Thinking of updating to a new design as I have some spare cash. Open to suggestions in a new message.

Thankyou for your answers. I actually live in Southampton but thanks for the offer Damian.

I own an older Starker's Marblehead and unfortunately the previous owner to me did not update the class registration measurement certificate when he acquired the boat. Therefore in compliance with the class rules I technically need the boat to be re-measured before I can sail her in competition, even at club level. I have only made some small improvements including a new bulb to the fin and a new A Swing rig which is the same size as the original, everything else including the rig and sails is as was when the boat was originally measured. I found a measurer, the closest to where I live albeit 30 miles away and arranged to have him re-measure the boat. It was obvious that he hadn’t measured a Marblehead for some time, hardly surprising as many of the club’s that previously sailed them including his own no longer did. What was painfully obvious was that the measurement forms for the class has been updated over the years to a point where unless you hold a B-tec in computer science, to the ordinary layman they are totally incomprehensible. The chap did his best and I phoned Martin Roberts for some guidance while I was there. Unfortunately although Martin gave some advice it was not until I got home and phoned David Creed that I realised what had been done was not what was required as the on line forms had not been completed and I and the measurer had wasted about 3 hours of our time each and a 60 mile round trip. There is no guidance on the web site about how to edit and complete the forms and the demo form makes it all the more confusing. The class registrar is not available to answer any queries on the phone while the procedure is being completed. Most radio sailors are getting on in years and are not fully computer literate. It is not acceptable to have a system where the measurer has to complete an online form without some guidance of what is required and how to do it. The Marblehead class has shrunk in recent years and this does nothing to encourage sailors to join the class and have their boats measured and take part in competition. A good example of a simple measurement form can be found on the American One Meter class website. The old adage of Keep it Simple needs to be adopted here! Apparently I am not the only Marblehead owner who has struggled with this.

Thanks Guys I was aware of using soapy water to fix vinyl but didn't consider it for deck patch material. 'll give it a try. Michael

Is there a special way of applying deck patches to keep it taught and avoid wrinkles?

Well I agree with Richard and I think I may have bought his boat if it's No 22 a couple of years ago when I was new to Radio sailing. I have since moved on to IOM and Marblehead's which are much more satisfying. A taller rig similar to that introduced to the DF 65 may help. I wonder if the low aspect rig was a deliberate decision based on the stronger winds at open venues like Fleetwood, etc. We sail in fickle and generally light winds at Eastleigh and I find this particular boat very frustrating. I know I am in the minority at my club but I am leaning towards a feeling that the whole DF breed is stifling development of RG65's and IOM's. After all, a good second hand competitive but older model IOM with a couple of suits of sails can be had for not much more than a DF95 and likewise a used RG65 with a swing rig is much more fun than a DF65. I have decided to mothball both my 65 and 95 or sell them if anyone is interested.

Kept me busy for 30 minutes. brilliant

Well I think I have found the ideal solution to my question. On big boats we often us a butyl rubber sealing compound which comes on a roll. This is far too thick and not pliable enough for model yachts. However the alternative I have now used on the models is Blu tack. Rolled thinly it still compresses under the small deck fittings to give a watertight seal. A lot less messy than using silicon sealant and the excess that squeezes out can easily be removed by running your finger nail around the base of the fitting.. Worked for me anyway. Michael

Hi everyone. During this enforced period of non sailing I am refurbishing one of my Marbleheads. It is a home design from a member of my club and is best suited (in my opinion) to strong winds as it is quite beamy and having more forward buoyancy tends to nose dive less than my Stark and therefor carry a taller rig longer. When on the water and sailing the mast appears to be raked slightly forward. This is a swing rig only boat. Is there an optimum rake for a swing rig mast? It is obviously a bit of a job to remove the current mast tube if I need to alter it, but if I did, is it worthwhile fitting a top and bottom ball race bearing mast tube? Thanks Michael.

Hi All. I am a professional yacht and boat builder (the big stuff) and when we fit deck hardware everything is bedded onto a compound to keep it watertight. I'm relatively new to radio sailing and currently refurbishing a Krcar IOM. I am now about to refit the deck equipment. When I removed it there was some evidence of water ingress at some points and it was evident that nothing was sealed apart from the radio pot. Is this normal practice? The stuff we use on big boats is unsuitable for RC yachts so what if anything do you use? Thanks Michael

Bought a DF 95 to compliment my DF 65 and metre. Not as pretty as the metre and the purist will probably bulk at this but it was second hand, has only used once and was an absolute bargain over the price of a new one. My club sails these one a fortnight so just waiting for the opportunity to race her in a couple of weeks time.

Hi All and many thanks for your advice. I looked at the Italico that was advertised on the site and dismissed that. It was very tatty and appeared to be very flimsy and to my eye constructed of blown plastic similar to the DF boats which on my understanding of the rules is not class compliant. Certainly not worth the £350 asking price. I've bought the Krcar for £180. It came with two rigs and two sets of sails the A rig in Mylar appears a little old and a B rig n scrim which has hardly been used, both suits are by PJ Sails. There was a rudder servo fitted but no sail winch and I have obtained a Hitec drum winch, which although not the fastest was free. I had to make a new servo tray which is now fitted. I've removed all the deck fittings and prepared the hull and deck for a respray. Ongoing work when I can fit it in but it should be on the water by mid summer. Next quandary I have is should I buy a DF 95? Michael.

Hi I am relatively new to radio sailing and currently have been sailing a DF 65 for about 12 months with varying degrees of success. I have come from big bot sailing. The club to which I belong has a small fleet of IOM's and I am keen to move up. However there is a huge difference of opinion of what model is suitable for my needs so I thought I'd ask around. The lake we sail on is in a depression with dense trees on both the north and western sides. Our control area is on the Eastern shore. Winds are generally light and variable with very little in the way of waves. I am looking to improve my skills with a used boat with of price not exceeding £300 preferably in GRP. This is only for club racing I have no intention to go further at present. I have an option on a Peter Wiles Krcar in need of some restoration but some members have indicated this is not a suitable model for our lake but what do I know. Opinions would be welcome Thanks Michael