John Hanton

Sikaflex 291 is a flexible bonding sealer which I believe can be overpainted. regards, John.

Well done Mark, looks very nice, be good to include the link to build photos from the winch repair thread, pretty amazed with how light you have managed to build it. John

Evening Eric, My luff wire is tensioned with cord and a small bowsie attached to very small hooks or a loop of wire fixed to the lower Goosneck attaching screws. I think some use elastic. I have a metal loop in the end of the boom for the cunningham, the cord goes from the boom through the loop around the mast back through the loop then cunningham hole back to the loop around the other side of the mast through the loop again and back to the boom, the ends are knotted and fixed to the boom with a couple of small cable ties which slide to adjust tension but are tight enough to hold position- its much simpler than it sounds! Others leave out the loops around the mast. John

Evening Eric, Sounds like your mast had around 20mm pre bend which may be about right for the thicker section with Sails etc sails but you are correct that Martin Roberts uses straight according to his rig building instructions, this may however suit his sails better. Fitting the shrouds to the mast front is becoming more common and is believed to add a little extra tension but I would still add a bit of bend if you can. Some attach the shrouds to a single hook on the mast front and cover with a little deck patch material to stop the jib leach line hooking up, I put mine through the hole and out of the top attached a crimp then pulled them back, the hook is easier! John

Hi Eric, Sounds like a good plan, my luff wires have a small loop at the top which is hooked onto the swinging wire in the mast head fitting, depends if you follow the idea of the luff swinging around the mast a bit or having the luff wire as close as possible to the mast. Sails etc masts usually have quite a lot of pre-bend, 40mm for an A rig, but if you are using thicker walled tube then less I would think. Depending how fussy you are on weight, if the replacement is heavier you can reduce the hull correctors but will then need to add the same to your B and C rigs. John.

Hello Eric, I suggest obtaining building instructions from whoever's sails you are using, these will give you critical measurements including pre-bend if required, getting this right is a art in itself and should be done before any holes are drilled in the mast, I believe that BG and Sails etc will supply masts already bent to suit their sails if required. I always find it tricky drilling the forestay hole dead centre and then at 90deg and perpedicular for spreaders but small vee blocks can help, of course if there is pre bend you also have to make sure this is pointing the right way ( forward ) and central. I usually wind masking tape around the mast where holes are required then measure and mark and re-measure a few times to make sure it is right. Very sharp drill bits are required espectially for the thin wall hardened tubes, it is important to keep the bit cutting as the tube soon work hardens. The goose neck can be clamped on before drilling with boom in place and the swung from side to side to check for alignment by measuring from boom end to mast top, I use a couple of small pieces of deck patch material to pack out the gooseneck at the bottom which is supposed to help in getting mainsail twist correct. If you are nervous have a go with a piece of one of the reasonably priced tubes before going for the expensive stuff. good Luck, John