Paul Barton

The 2.85mm filament is rarely used in the sort of machines most people use. I only use polymax pla tough filament as it's performance is so much better than anything else. Sorry can't be of more help The printer looks a mean beast but the results are what matter.

Officially you need to apply to the IOM registrar for a hull number probably in the 5000+ range. Then you could use the last 2 digits of the new number. Alternatively you could apply for a personal number for a small fee. If 20 is available all good. If you don't sail outside your local club you could just put 620 on your sails. Please post some pictures.

Really good idea.

I have printed approx. 20 hulls for customers and there are close to another 20 self printed.

Hi Steve, I originally found them on Etsy but more recently got them from Aliexpress. They are 100mm can lids. There are a few inserts that have been designed to use the clip on lid. paul

There is hardware parts list in the files section https://www.facebook.com/groups/373682077022782/files/files Sails etc also have a list - just ask for the Alioth parts list Warm regards Paul

Hi Stephen B, The hull kit is £330. The fin, rudder and ballast £358 - allow £150 per rig set, sail winch £250 (RMG), Rudder servo £35, TX/RX and battery £100. Add around £100 for hardware etc. Total around £1473. I rarely offer complete hulls as I'm so busy printing the Kits. Call me on 07966490048 Warm regards Paul Barton

The Success of the Alioth is noteworthy. matches the performance of the best designs currently available the way its printed means that it needs very little if any surface finishing the strength of Polymax PLA tough means that it really is stronger than GRP can now be assembled in a few hours The Alioth V3 is now available in 3 hull sections. Clip on pot lid, bow bumper supplied in white. Fittings kits available form Sails Etc. Colours available are: Teal (turquoise) yellow (slightly translucent) Orange (slightly translucent) White Red Grey Or a combination of the above in any way you choose. Prices for a hull kit (you add fin,rudder, ballast servos etc) is £330 plus £15 shipping. Delivery is normally a week. Confirm your order on a Monday and get your kit on Friday and be on the water the following Monday!

We are delighted to partner with Juan M Egea who has designed an outstanding competitive IOM. The boat can be printed from digital files relatively easily and there are now several licensed builders around the world who will print a hull Kit for you to an accepted standard. These hulls are very easy to assemble, because of the way they are printed, and equally easy to finish because of the outstanding surface finish. Most will simply need a light spray with a clear coat polyurethane finish. For more information go to the Alioth Facebook Group. There is further information at the Alioth IOM site.

Hi I'm just starting out on this quest. We have a club member who is quite disabled physically. He currently sails a Hansa at international level and wants to try his hand at RC sailing. Has anyone modified a Tx for very limited range of movement. We're not talking about putting all controls onto one stick here. He sails his hansa by a sequence of pushes on buttons with the back of his hand (i think). I'm going to approach the people who make the control system for the hansa as well. Warm regards Paul

Thanks darin Warm regards Paul

I'm trying to find out what level of insurance cover MYA affiliation provides. The policy talks about £5 million but I'm just after clarification Warm regards Paul barton

Thanks Chris your suggestion is very helpful

We have a really good problem at the www.CotswoldModelYachtclub.co.uk because we've seen very significant growth in the last year and we now face the problem of having a fleet where we have 15 boats on the startline. If we get much bigger we will be knocking on 18-20 in a few months. My question is how should we best manage the fleet. It's a bi weekly fleet of 'small boats' comprising 10+ DF65 with a few affinity and one 3d printed RG65. I've looked at HMS but it seems too complicated and doesn't seem to work for a series where people drop in and drop out. We've heard of people splitting the fleet into A and B fleets and promoting boats from one fleet to another at the end of the year or even monthly. So open to ideas please.

Repaired winch on its way back. Motor and pot replaced. Old switch is toast so new one on order. Progress is being made. Just need to check hull thoroughly for historical hairline cracks. Any ideas how to find them. Wondered about using a dye? Paul

Hi Steve how is the build going - any pictures paul

Story so far. Day 1 The Rx and rudder servo and LiFe battery are removed and disposed of. Rudder servo powered on but was clearly seized. LiFe battery was showing signs of corrosion on main connectors and balance plug. The RX was seriously corroded. The Rudder linkage was damaged at some time and has been removed. New Futaba rudder servo fitted and tested. Radio pot removed and recess cleaned up RMG Smart switch and RMG 280 ES winch removed and returned for service (dried out but not powered up). Will be interested to see how the so called waterproof switch has suffered being submerged for 72 hours. All deck patches removed and hull cleaned ready for reapplication. Boat hull and internals inspected and cleaned ready for reassembly. keel checked and stored B rig was on the boat when it sank and the ball-raced gooseneck was showing signs of corrosion and was feeling rough when rotated. Disassembled and regreased with silicone grease. Gooseneck is noted for replacement in due course. The intention is to fit lightweight grp patches to all foredeck openings which will necessitate fitting small landing pads at the corners and midway along long sides. I've ordered 0.5mm grp sheets to facilitate this. Once they are shaped and landings fitted these will be covered with new deck patches and stuck down. I anticipate the weight penalty will be about 50 grams but the confidence will be well worth it.

Thanks Darin, I'll see if we can do a small scale trial. Paul

On the plus side a metre of weed cushioned my IOM ASBO that recently sank at the Cotswold Model Yacht Club lake. The downside is that its formed a 1m deep layer at the bottom of our lake and thats in winter. The CSC dye the lake in spring and summer but we have to find a way to control this weed. Has anyone tried using a thick plastic sheet, weighted down with paving slabs to stop the light getting to the site of the weed growth. Our lake is relatively shallow and flat and it might work. Anyone tried it?

A quick update. The ASBO has surfaced with some help from the marvelous Cotswold Model Yacht Club members (Barry Trueman and Garry Stevenson in particular), Swindon Sub Aqua Club divers (x2). Thanks to the outstanding build quality and design from Barry Chisam the hull appears to be in good condition. The electrics and electronics are less good and will need a complete overhaul. What is clear is that the yellow #8 will sail again. Thanks too go to the myriad people, MYA members, Builders, Designers and fellow IOM sailors all over the world who have offered and given great support and its clear to me that this sailing community is more about family than winning: OK on the water winning might take pride of place but off the water its a great team. Simon Clarke deserves a special mention for lending me one of his spare boats and I'm most grateful to him. I've started to look for a new boat in any case and have several feelers out for a replacement. Of note the divers from Swindon Sub Aqua Club are happy to assist with diving lead recovery of boats and are prepared to travel upto 45 minutes from Swindon to assist. I can't recommend them highly enough. I'll put up so pictures of the recovery in due course in a separate thread. Also I'll make the repair/restoration of the boat a separate thread to encourage any readers. The winch will need some TLC and the remainder of the system will be replaced. All in all a tough day at the lake but one with a happy ending. Why not come and visit us at the lake and I promise to keep my boat on the water not under it.

we are looking at all sorts of options. My insurance looks like it might payout. I can't get over the feeling of watching a great boat take a nose dive and not come up. Its in about 12-15ft of water but 2 hours of searching today didn't find any trace of it. The sad thing is that I'd just got it going really well after 15 hours on the water in just a week. There is no substitute for time on the water. The guys at the club were fantastic and the offers of help are really positive. We will find it and get it back just not sure when. By the way what is the Fraktal like as a boat? Warm Regards Paul PS the good mast and sails were in my car

Hi I've been sailing a Barry Chisam boat an ASBO mk1 which, in heavy winds, nosedived and probably blew in a deck patch and sank like a stone. There is a lesson there. I'm after a replacement boat and wondered what would be a similar boat. I've seen a Fraktal on sale on the classified section but don't know what they are like. All help welcome.

My email is Paul@pabarton.com

Give Barry Biddlecombe cedarstripco@icloud.com they are very good.

If possible I'd leave the hull in the jig to fit the deck. The hull will twist a lot out of the jig.