Richard98

Hi again Simon, I also found this part of the A+ rig tricky. There is not much room at the top for the line and bowsies and the shape of the jib foot limits the amount of mast rake. I wanted maximum mast rake and also found that the boom hits the deck. Maybe worth looking at the mast rake and the location of the swivel line along the boom. Looks like they crated the A+ rig simply by adding area to the jib as much as possible instead of a taller overall rig. As I mentioned, I was using the rig on the DF hull with floats and cross beams added. My solution for obtaining the mast rake I wanted was to make a new jib with a more usual kicked up boom. See pic. Think I prefer the standard A rig ! The topping lift position does work; it may still pivot away but no where near as much as when it is moved away from the mast. Richard

Hi Simon, I put a DF65 A+ rig together recently for a trimaran, which I have now sold. However the forestay attachments is as follows. Tie a line to the front of the crane and tie the ring to that and then attach the jib / forestay to that, with a bowsie for adjustment. The jib topping lift ties directly to the above hole in the crane. Managed to find a picture, which should explain it all. Good luck Richard

Hi Vernon, I don't know whether you saw my thread "Alternative build" on the IOM page, but would be most interested in details of your build. Maybe you could post some on here. Also agree with the majority, on the brass tube and pin spreaders. Richard

One other consideration will be the effect of shortening the forestay with the rig being too low and being unable to get the jib to fit. Sketch it out first and you will see. John and Trevor make valid points. Richard

Hello Don, Not sure what your hull is made of, but in my article on the IOM page "Alternative build" you can get an idea of what weight you may add to your hull. Paint is heavy and although my finish was clear epoxy, it shows just how much needs to be removed to manage weight. As you say you may need to prime / undercoat first if applying a colour finish; so you are going to add weight. This may not matter, of course and it is more that I took immense care to keep the build weight down and seem loth to slap some on just to make it look nice. Usual advice to prepare with a good de grease and keying with 800 say. May be wise to avoid car paints (correct me here) Spraying applies less paint than brushing I find. Finally remove gloss with the 1200 wet & dry. Makes a slipperier hull. Gloss looks nice however; so up to you. What design is the boat ? Best of luck, Richard

Hi Eric, This is an old One Metre development hull. An extreme design idea that never really worked. Any One Metre would be good though. With the displacement reduced to sub 2Kg a typical IOM will only be on about half of it's WL and "sitting on it's rocker" hence a manoeuvrable platform as opposed to a full WL. Added bonus of plenty of reserve buoyancy. I am printing the floats and also the X beam brackets and foil / rudder incidence adjusting clamps. Not a lot of wind is required to foil, as proven with the same foils on a heavier cat configuration. Light wind - remove foils and slot a short, stub fin to act as a centreboard. Fit smaller rudder and sail conventionally. No ballast required = very nippy ! Don't forget that only one float is in the water at any time with a low wetted area. As pictured with the orange prototype floats, the foils are in the fixed incidence tubes and it was apparent that the high aspect rig moment cancelled the incidence. Next sail will see them fitted in the adjustable, outboard, brackets visible in the shoreside pic. Incidence can be quickly adjusted. The rudder is already mounted in the same bracket on the aft beam. I have a rescue tug (cheaply made from liteply) and will also fit a floater at the masthead to prevent full inversion. Sailing at Colwick Park, Nottingham. US One Metre still available and have pinched the rig for the trip. Might give it a go again.

Been playing around with multihulls for some time now; various configurations of cats and tri's. Here is latest effort and was intended to use an old One Metre hull with a "bolt on" conversion to a lightweight trimaran. Not a new idea, I know. Paul Goddard has an excellent version based on the DF95. Anyway, a few pics of what can be achieved with simply printed floats and a few printed brackets. Boat can be sailed conventionally as a One Metre: remove the fin and ballast, clip on the hulls, connect the longer rudder and just sail as a trimaran (will need a stub fin as a centreboard) Or add foils to the outboard brackets and try foiling. This is Mini40 legal but a bit shorter than the max allowed and a tad more convenient. Weighs in at just under 2Kg all up sailing weight. I have not sanded the printed floats and they are printed in 4 parts. This set was assembled with thickened epoxy, hence the visible joints. I have printed another pair and joined with clear epoxy and will retro fit these after fully testing. I do not intend to have this measured or propose any "minor" rule amendments to make this legal. Just a good way to use an old IOM hull and have some fun.

Colin, I bought a DF95 when they first appeared. The rudder was very wobbly; just as yours. I contacted RC yachts and they were aware that this was an issue and that it was being resolved. They posted a replacement tube which made the rudder as it should be. I sold the boat some time ago and cannot remember the details of fitting, but it was a simple job and only took minutes. Anyway: RC yachts have the solution - very helpful too.

Hi Zimba, Do not put silicon anywhere on the hull. There are a number of reasons for this. I had a new DF 95 and sailed it as supplied. The only grease I use is vaseline. I have seen DF sailors filling the keel void to keep water out. Silicon is denser than water and this will actually make the boat (slightly) heavier than just allowing the small void to fill. Once silicon has been anywhere on the hull or insides it will rule out any future damage repairs in that area. Since any boat may crack in the highly loaded keel area, for example, if hitting an underwater obstruction. OK for sealing house windows though. Richard

Simon, Stencil and felt tip for sail numbers. Either buy the stencils from one of our suppliers or try and cut them yourself. Better than loads of sticky plastic all over your sails. IOM rules detail all spacings etc. Dyneema for sheets and all running rigging. Once again from any of our suppliers. Incredibly strong and free running and available in pretty colours too. Richard

Spray high build primers sold in lots of high street stores. as mentioned previously; flat off (1200) so that carbon high spots just visible. That way you know it is smooth and not thick.

Been asked a few times: what allowance I make for sanding when cutting the shadows / sections. This is one of those questions that answers itself once the "mechanics" are appreciated. Obviously you can sand and sand; removing an unknown amount of material. The reality is that it actually takes care of itself, just like a well set up boat going to windward. The 10mm plank cross section obviously cannot follow the curve of the shadows / stations. The median of the plank is correct and the outsides must be +. Therefore when sanding (with a long board of course) you will, or should, be removing this + only and no more. Therefore what you have is the 3mm plank sitting on the shadows exactly. Keep the questions coming. Richard

Thanks for all replies. Thought I would close this topic and say what I ended up with as the main hull of my next Trimaran. An IOM hull shell ! Much lighter than the DF and, due to it's normal displacement being greater, will actually float higher with a shorter WL. There are DF95's already sailing as trimarans and this could be a great way into sailing these boats. Just need floats, cross beam tubes and a deeper foiled rudder. Then throw away the keel and ballast (only joking)

Spot on John; I apply then wet and dry so the carbon high spots are just visible. May not look pretty but super smooth and hardly any extra weight. White does not get hot in the sun - of course. Richard

I use high build epoxy primer and flat it down. Spray high build works ok too. Never use any form of etch primer though. The acid content degrades epoxy and polyester. Best finish is 1000/1200 wet and dry. I too have a preference for white fins.