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Frank Russell Designs Phoenix 4 2020 - 10r build

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  • Author

Can someone provide some good steps/advice/tips for creating the softer, streamlined front of the bow? What material is used? Is it shaped somehow once applied?

1 hour ago, mdeleo said:

Thanks John. Again, I truly appreciate the experience and advice you've been providing. It's invaluable, especially the "sailing my 6th attempt..." comment.

Re carbon, absolutely the best choice for something competitive. There are a couple of determining factors that are in play for me right now:

Sounds like a right ol' journey Mike, in all, sorts of ways!

Praise for unashamedly sharing your journey tho. Learning here what to do, and also what not to do, - whether building/sailing/rules - is valuable info to share.

2 hours ago, mdeleo said:

Thanks John. Again, I truly appreciate the experience and advice you've been providing. It's invaluable, especially the "sailing my 6th attempt..." comment.

Re carbon, absolutely the best choice for something competitive. There are a couple of determining factors that are in play for me right now:

Sounds like a right ol' journey Mike, in all, sorts of ways!

Praise for unashamedly sharing your journey tho. Learning here what to do, and also what not to do lol , - whether building/sailing/rules - is valuable info to share.

  • Author

First half of the hull mold.

IMG_6790.jpeg

IMG_6791.jpeg

IMG_6792.jpeg

I see you have opted for hull / deck molds whereas most commercial molds are vertically split to ease the release of a rounded deck edge. The experts say you need at least a 6 degree angle for the mold to release successfully. The last one I did had a rounded deck edge but I had to break the plug up to get it out of the mold and you have to leave the bow / stern open to have any chance of getting the shell out of the mold.

Good luck

  • Author

The plan is to "mold" the flat deck on a waxed sheet of Mylar separately and join that finished part to the hull after all of the supporting internal structure is installed. That approach requires that I only leave about an inch of flange on the mold where the deck will attach along the full hull length. Again, thanks for the insight and industry expertise.

Edited by mdeleo

  • Author

After a little worry (thanks John), a few silent prayers and some coercing, the mold halves came away from the parting board and plug. Some trimming and a bit of wet sanding in a few spots and they'll be ready to mold a hull.

IMG_6797.jpeg

Sorry hadn't noticed that you had split the mold for the hull. It's usually recomended to put alignment pins or similar in the two halves before you take it off the plug. Incidently you have seen the videos on Easy Composites web-site? Loads of great info on how to do things. I make flat mouldings on a sheet of glass with male shapes for mast recesses etc. Paint it with PVA and off you go, gives a very good finish. Also easy to tape the vacuum bag to. I don't have a sheet big enough to make the deck in one go so I butt join. Depends if you want a carbon look finish or are going to paint it.

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