RMG 280D setup

[roger]

The winch is inside the boat so difficult to access. The 280D does not have a setup wire and instruction's refer to pressing the "button" . I assume the winch has a button to be pressed? am I correct to follow the instructions but as I cannot access this do I have to take the winch out to run the setup process? 

[John949]

'Pressing the button' is for when you are using and RMG switch i.e. you turn the RMG switch on/off.  If you are not using one then read the instructions for the TX on/off method.  

Personally I wouldn't bother setting the travels on the winch, I would just use the Tx travel function (unless someone has already set the travels too short for your boat).  It's far easier and quicker to set the winch travels to max and use the Tx functions to set the sheeted in / out positions.  If you want to set up high / low mode sheeting positions then the winch travel has to be greater than the 'normal' position anyway.

It looks as though the D models pre-date Lipo / LiFe so setting the battery type isn't much use either.

 

 

 

[roger]

Thank you for the knowledgeable reply I appreciate it. Iam coming to that conclusion. I have a small issue trying to match the final 15% of the stick travel with the travel of the winch. I have a small dead spot when I pull the stick to adjust the sheet... just at the beginning. I am about to try extended servo option on my FRSKY Taranis TX. This will allow an extra 10-1% percent control (I hope) . That's my fun for this evening.. Thanks again

[John Ball]

Here are some notes that I collected that covers the D model and earlier.

Yes, it can be set for Lipo/life batteries - just plug in the fully charged battery when setting the low voltage procedure

From memory, for the D model you need a signal/line switch - it allows to cut the power on one leg while leaving power to the Rx,

Here is a link for the signal line switch

https://www.radioyachtsuppliesaustralia.com/products/Signal-line-switch-Part-%23-RMG-SLS.html

John

RMG SmartWinch.docx

Edited May 6 by John Ball
added switch info

[John Ball]

Here is an RMG pdf on using the signal line switch

John

SetupProcedureFailsafeRXSignalSwitch.pdf

[John949]

The dead spot is probably caused by the Tx travel range being greater than the winch expects.  If you reduce the travel on the Tx then this should eliminate it.

The explanation is a bit complex and you don't need to fully understand it but......

The Tx sends a PPM signal to the servo.  Unfortunately there is no absolute standard for this signal and there are differences between various manufacturers.  Modern kit tends to use 1.0mS for min, 1,5mS for mid and 2.0mS for max.  Older systems often used 1.2mS, 1.5mS & 1.8mS.  So if your Tx is using 1.0mS for min but you servo (i.e. the winch) thinks minimum travel is 1.2mS then the winch won't move until the stick is some distance from the minimum position i.e. demanding a position equivalent to 1.2mS.  So if you reduce your Tx travel so that the minimum stick position gives 1.2mS, then the dead spot will disappear. 

Of course you don't need to worry about the actual numbers just use the Tx menus to reduce the throttle travel until the dead spot disappears - reducing it by about 20% ought to do it.

Actually, if you are running EdgeTx on the Taranis, I believe you can set the max /neutral / min pulse times on the radio.  I'm away from home at the moment but I'll check that when I get back.   Unfortunately RMG don't seem to disclose what pulse times they use.

Still not sure about LiPo / Life - the instructions refer to the 'size' of the battery pack.  I think this is detecting the number of NiCd / NiMh cells (i.e. 4 , 5,  6 or even 7?) If so then the 'warning' level will be way too low for LiPo/LiFe

 

[John Ball]

I did some more digging, and the D model Rev 2 used a Pulser, not the signal line switch (C and earlier and D rev 1). Both were replaced by the RMGSwitch-BEC.

If you have a D rev 1, you can make a signal line switch.

Unfortunately, I cannot find a source for either the Pulser or BEC as they are listed as 'obsolete'.

The Pulser is just to get the radio to bind before the winch goes into set-up mode. It Is a simple Capacitor that supplies voltage to the radio to aid binding.

Here is a web page with the info.

https://www.rmgsailwinch.com.au/rmg/pages/RMGSwitch%2dBEC.html#su

An RMG repair facility may have some left or for loan.

 

John

Edited May 7 by John Ball
D Rev1

[roger]

Thanks for this John. I am pretty sure the switch signal line will be the method for my RMG 280D. Its amazing how easy it is to do and how had to find what to do.  I have in fact used the Taranis channel output settings and managed to get it fairly accurate. It's nice to know that on a cold winters night I can revisit this and set it up as per best way ( this allows the overloaded torque sensors to work as well) . John again thanks for this info. When I asked around very few people have actually setup the RMG as per textbook.

 

[John Ball]

I strongly recommend using the RMG to set the limits and not the radio travel - this is a strong winch and an accidental change on the radio could cause an overrun with resultant damage.

I use the travel limit, low voltage warning, fail safe, and scaled linear travel (one end) at about 30% to give fine adjust at close hauled, and overload.

One nice feature of the low battery is that as it reaches the low setting, the sails will go to 'failsafe' so I get a visual warning with enough reserve to sail back to the dock.

John

Edited May 7 by John Ball

[roger]

Thanks. You just incentivised me to do it the right way. I have it working at present but when I get a gap in sailing I will do a full reconfiguration of the winch.

[Bill Green]

The D series RMG winches are difficult to program and signal line switch really does help. You can make one up yourself it’s a simply an on off for the programming process. Once you have the knack it’s easy. John is quite right ti suggest not using the Tx  EPA. I’ve always suggest setting the travel distance a little over what’s needed and use EPA to trim it into what’s wanted. Pulsar was used in the early days of 2.4 gig as the early winches did not bind with 2.4

[roger]

I will do this over the weekend and tell you the result and any difficulties I encounter. I will make up the switch wire as suggested. easy== peasy Iam sure.

[Neil Witt]

Well thanks to this thread and a message from Bill I was able to configure my new to me R6M with an RMG 280C. Think it took longer to find a switch and spare servo cable in my various boxes of spares and solder the switch in than it took to configure the full throw for my Flysky and to set the endpoints. Very straightforward.