Jump to content

Open water 6M Design


Riv

Recommended Posts

I sail dinghies on the Dart.

Often while sitting on a Race committee boat it would be nice to have a Model Yacht to sail.

For open water use/choppy conditions winds up to 15mph are there any 6m designs that are better than others?

I'd expect to build my own.

Riv

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just had a look at both and the Romanza design is really contorted it will be much more difficult to build, also it just does not have the visceral appeal that the Cerberus sign has, so Cerberus it is.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Riv said:

Just had a look at both and the Romanza design is really contorted it will be much more difficult to build, also it just does not have the visceral appeal that the Cerberus sign has, so Cerberus it is.

I bought a licence to build a Cerberus from Frank Russell but never proceeded with it. I have a friend who is an expert hull moulder living locally. He built a plug and mould for the Cerberus and made a couple of hulls in carbon. He was showing me his when I visited last week and reckoned that it was the best sailing 6 metre he had ever had.  I bought one of his Romanza hulls ( see pic) last year and that sails well. Just need a bit more time on the water to get used to it and a couple of more sails for it.    Just to say that all the hulls built have had the appropriate fees paid to the designer.

 

6-metre-o2.jpg

6-metre-o5.jpg

6-metre-o1.jpg

Edited by tiggy_cat
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have ordered the Cerberus plans from Frank Russell.

I found the 6m site and the blog posts on the Romanza design enlightening.

Quite a step up from the bread and butter hulls I used to make in my teens, but all quite manageable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With regards to the cant on the keel, some time ago various studies were done on this and and the conclusions were 1 degree up at the forward end was benificial and this was in relation to the waterline, there are others who know a lot more who will probably clarify this more

Mike Ewart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In theory all angles should be measured relative to the drawing baseline (the line at the top of the plan used to align the sections on your building board).  This may or may not be parallel to the waterline.  Again theoretically positive angles are clockwise (remember ACTS from your O level geometry).  Having said that 'cant' usually refers to a sideways lean (as in illegal canting keels).  The correct term for a fore / aft angle would be rake (as in mast rake).  I agree that one would expect the keel to point up at the bow end slightly.  This is because a force on the sails causes a bow down rotation of the boat (particularly in a gust) and so pointing the keel up reduces the drag a bit as the boat accelerates.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...