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Eric Finley

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Posts posted by Eric Finley

  1. Hi JAD57 I think you need to know first off to what level you want this boat to take you, local, regional or national. This will dictate a likely expenditure. If it is for local use only the water conditions you sail in could change the designs you look at.

    If cost is not a limiting factor you cannot go wrong with a Britpop, V9, Vision or Mojo (others are available). The issue is that to buy any of these designs new there are waiting lists, so you would need to check with the builders. If you order a new boat don't forget to order preferred sails as there is also waiting lists for these. If you are looking for a second hand boat this forum is good or you need to keep your ears open locally as to who is buying a new boat as their current boat will normally be up for grabs.


  2. Hi Like Garry I suspect most of us thought that the vote was to make the existing plate gooseneck's compliant and not to basically rule them out.Because the emergency ruling was made to allow the use of them at the last World's and the change that was voted for seemed just to want to ratify that situation for the future.

    It is most disappointing that we now seem to be in a bigger mess than before, I cannot believe the original intention of the rule clarification (LOL) was to overnight make so many rigs non-compliant. I can understand the rule makers wanting to ensure this design was not developed/enlarged but what happened to common sense!! Oh I forgot we are talking about a technical committee and not a ruling body who may give a fig about it's skippers interests (who have both money and time invested in their equipment). Before anyone asks my own rigs do not use a plate type gooseneck so in theory I have most to lose in lack of performance!!

    I'm not too bothered about the how should the rules been interpreted before the ruling, but as these goosenecks seemed to have been deemed legal at some point in the past either by measurer's or the rule maker's why the sudden knee jerk reaction as I seem to remember them being on the market when I started sailing a few years back at least three World's since. In other words who decided they were not compliant and if that is the case either just come out and ban them or declare them compliant with restrictions if needed to stop further development.

    We can argue / discuss till the cows come home it will make no difference unless we can petition the governing body to rethink it's decision/intentions and by then a lot of the rigs will be modified.

  3. Stephen

    Have a look at Guildford's web site. If you go to workshop/sail trimming you will find Roger Stollery's design for a burgee. Fairly simple to build & lightweight. It's a good starting place and you can then develop what works for you.


  4. Thanks for the replies about hull finish just a little surprised of only the two answers, thought there may be more debate on this, guess I will continue with the polished finish. As stated one wrong tack etc. will probably make greater difference to any result, but the way I sail I'll take any help/advantage I can get.

    What about the post sailing yacht care, or am I the only one to do more than ventilate the hull to dry it out. I'm sure my yacht is not the only one to ship a little water while sailing.


  5. J W B

    Had a chance now to go looking through some of the photos & they are excellent for seeing alternative ways of rigging a boat. Given me a lot better idea of what to do. Can recommend looking at these to all.

    Thanks again for posting these.


  6. Hi All

    What is the general consensus on whether or not to polish the hull for best sailing results. I note some use very fine wet & dry paper to finish the yachts hull. So far I have taken the route of using car polish as this makes it easier to clean the hull of any marks gained while sailing. Which is faster or is there no difference?

    Also on this theme what post sailing cleaning & care is required. I personally wash the exterior of the hull, fin & rudder in fresh water before removing a deck patch to ventilate the boat allowing the interior to dry out. I don't sail in salt water. If you do is it required to wash the interior of the hull with fresh water each time & what extra care is required for the winch, rudder servo & radio receiver.


  7. Sorry to be such a pain with questions but I have a couple more. First what is the best/simplest method to tension the luff wire, is it just a cord with bowsie & second I've looked at Lester Gilbert's web site for Cunningham attachments again is there a best/simplest method of attachment? I have always gone for the keep it simply philosophy but what works the best?

    Thanks for all your help so far


  8. Hi John

    Thanks for reply on your luff wire connection, it sounds like a far better solution to my rigs old design. I assume it makes a sail change far easier than having to cut the luff wire to remove the main sail.

    The top of the mast is still in one piece above the spreaders so I have attempted to measure the pre-bend which works out at approx. 15mm. I presume that there will be little bend below that point in the mast. It looks like your surmising is correct in that a thicker wall mast will have less bend, I believe from something I read that Martin Roberts has been successful in obtaining enough tension in the jib stay without any pre-bend in the mast, therefore not certain entirely what to do! (cannot find the article again where I think this information came from).

    I have considered mounting the shrouds on the front of the mast rather than the side in an attempt to gain more tension in the forestay by use of shrouds rather than using pre-bend. Anyone got experience of this setup?

    Previous mast appears to be a thick wall tube I am therefore not expecting the rig weight to change by much, I will check but expect the next few races my yacht will be overweight so hope not to be sailing in light air's, if so will be totally crucified.


  9. Hi All

    Thanks for your advice/comments. I'm going to make a quick replacement mast using the components from the damaged/broken mast and a mast obtained from one of my sailing colleagues which I suspect is one of the least expensive items. This way if I do make any errors it will be no great loss. I can take most of the dimensions from the old mast by piecing the 3 parts together, the difficult one is how much pre-bend is required if any? It appears that the old mast had a small amount of bend but difficult/impossible to measure now. (using the heaviest/stiffest mast is pre-bend required?)

    The sails have survived without apparent damage, they are of Sailsetc manufacture, they have a wire luff cord which will need replacement. Can anyone confirm method of attachment at the of the mast as I had to cut this wire to remove the sails from the old mast at the top, it went through a hole in the mast with a bead on the inside to stop it pulling through. I find it difficult to believe that is correct fitting method, anyone know how?

    Thanks in anticipation


  10. Hi Guys

    Anyone got any good tips or advice for building a new 'A' rig as broke my mast today while sailing. Looking at the mast I think the boat must have been sailed in salt water before I purchased it as it shows quite a bit of corrosion at the point of failure.

    I was the only one to use the working suit, just as fast upwind as the fleet but lost out down wind unless the gusts turned up so marginal choice.

    grateful for all help


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