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Eric Finley

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Posts posted by Eric Finley

  1. Size of pulley I purchased was total outside diameter 60mm suitable for 12mm rope and approximately 45mm diameter rope runs on.

    I'm sure others will have own idea's, but seems to work OK for me. This size was chosen to suit 11.1mm PG mast material. If you want to bend 12mm mast material you may need to adjust width as I think the width for rope is just under 12mm.

    Good luck with design, you may want to restrict side movement of centre pulley which is a minor modification that I need to achieve with my design to improve repeatability of pre-bend.  I have bent four masts myself and club members have also used it as makes little sense for all within club to build a bender for number of times it gets use.

    I have also used it to remove pre-bend before re-bending a mast to suit sails.

  2. Just Google 'nylon pulley wheels'. I purchased mine off ebay, a quick look and they still seem to be available with either plain bore (which I used) or with bearings which seemed over the top to me as it is only low speed operation. There is a topic on the Forum with photo's of different benders some having wooden wheels.

  3. If there is a metal reinforcing strip I would have thought it would be marine grade stainless steel as you would not want it to corrode causing expansion and ultimately a problem with the fibre glass. If it is marine grade stainless it will not generally be magnetic, lesser grades (like used on a lot of cutlery) may well be magnetic.

    Have you tried to see if a magnet sticks to the deck above the track?

    Just interested as spend sometime at work looking at degrees of galvanic corrosion and corrosion for offshore platform use. (Salt water causes a lot of problems)

  4. Pardon my ignorance but does this actually need to be magnetic? Surely this is just sliding into a fibre glass track?

    If this is the case could you just use say brass rod 4mm dia and cut to length plus drilling the required hole?   A little more effort but a cheap easily obtained solution.

    If it needs to be magnetic can you please explain.

  5. The cheap and cheerful solution I have used in the past is to print the number on paper in the desired font and then cut to the required size and attach to the hull with clear packaging tape. Virtually zero cost and stands out as you can always print on coloured paper to suit hull.

  6. Darin

    The green device is a 3D model of the bender that Dave Alston had made, The other is the one I made, after trials I moved the wheels closer together (Advantage of the construction as wheel position is easily adjustable). By having them closer found it easier to control amount of bend and position on the mast of the bend.

     

    DSC02699.JPG

    mast bender.JPG

  7. Rob

    Why don't you try to get in touch with Richard?  He is a MYA member in the South West, I had a look at the Membership lists and it appears his Club is Dartmoor so I would start there. If the designer is still around no better place to start for advice.

    Eric

  8. Charles, the obvious answer is purchase from sail makers (Sailsetc or BG for example).

    I however purchased coloured ripstop material in green and pink off ebay/local market which I cut into strips, the only issue with this approach is because of order quantities I can supply all our club members for many years (all for about £10 if my memory serves).

    I previously used pieces of cassette recording tape, the only problem with these was when wet they could stick to the sails and as same colour both sides of sail sometimes confusing. (If you crumple the tape slightly less of an issue).

    I fit my tell tales same as race numbers, higher on starboard side.

    To attach either use small piece of deck patch material or not so good but works pvc electrical insulating tape. (be very careful not to use to big a piece of either)

    Eric

  9. Hi Ian

    I use TIG welding filler wire as this is straight. However you could equally use MIG welding wire off a roll. I also use this wire to make hooks etc. for rigging purposes. If you have a fabrication company locally you may be able to obtain a couple of rods or a length cut off a roll. If you try to buy this from a welding supplier it is usually sold by the Kilo. (I have found 1mm, 1.2mm & 1.6mm cover most needs)

    If you contact Housemartin sails I bought some from them in the past, I also think you will obtain some from Sailsetc. (Other RC suppliers do exist)

    Hope this helps

    Eric

  10. I have used the version of the King Max winch sold by Component Shop (link https://www.componentshop.co.uk/61g-digital-sail-winch-servo-6-turn-programmable.html?___SID=U }. as a replacement for both whirlwind and Eurgle winches with success in both IOM and Marblehead yachts. I set the number of turns on my radio's end point adjust. this needs to be set accurately as I did manage to burn out one winch when the boat was on the bank, I left the winch turned on and it was pulling against a locked pulley line system, my fault for the failure not the winches. Other than that the winch has operated reliably. It cannot compete against a RMG  for performance but is at least a 1/5th of the cost and half the weight. The only issue is a badly fitting winch drum, it works but not the best. I have subsequently used drums from defunct Eurgle's which now appear to have disappeared from the market. The speed of the winch does make gybing when running more difficult but no different to a Whirlwind. 

    There is a version of the King Max winch available from Hobby King which has less available torque but faster rotation, I have intended to try one in an IOM but fitted Eurgle refused to die and the boat has now been laid up as current boat has a RMG. fitted. ( I have one of these winches in my spares box for future trial.)

    Hope this helps.

  11. Anthony

    On a roll, have a look at the downloadable documents here:-

    www.aa-parts.com/en/  (sorry could not get hyperlink to work)

    Gives a lot of information as well as a range of drilling for masts, varying shroud and spreader heights etc.

    Hope of use to you & not overload of info.

    Eric

  12. Michael

    Just had a look at boats for sale and the Italico if not sold could make a good starter boat for the class, Any  Sailsetc yacht well setup will be a good choice, most if not all are good light air performing boats and also seem to tack well. Which from your lake description would seem to be main requirements. 

    Eric

  13. Michael

    The Krcar was a development of the Oscar, both designs from Peter Wiles PJ sails. The Krcar was produced to improve the higher wind speed performance of the boat by enabling the rig to sit lower. (Skiff type deck rather than flat)  From memory the Oscar was a good light wind performer so the Krcar should also be good in those conditions as the hull was of the same design. (Shape) If you look on PJ sails web site the two designs are in the catalogue.

    As Richard pointed out the main considerations for performance is the sail/rig condition followed by fin quality.  The sails are relatively easy upgrade, the mast is important for performance also relatively easy to change, the fin is not an easy upgrade.

    Why not give Peter Wiles a ring and ask him about the designs strengths and weakness, he has always been  helpful when I have contacted him.

    As Richard said do let us know what is your final choice.

    Eric

  14. Paul

    The idea of the tube is to maximise the length of the line that is the number 1 suit swivel. Barry has used this trick on previous designs like the Psycho that I sail. This swivel tube is also used on a large number of Sailsetc hull designs. It should not leak if not sealed, all of the yachts I have seen using this have had the hole taped while racing. My own boat was Barry's boat and when purchased was taped so if the designer sealed the hole who are we to disagree.

    Eric

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